Off the Menu

A Choice of Autumn Farm Dinners with Kirk's Traveling Kitchen and Claverach Farm, September 24 & 25

2011-09-12T10:59:00.001-07:00

Autumn Weekend of Culinary Dinners at Claverach Farm & Vineyard
We brought on the summer and now we’re ushering in the autumn with a special weekend of dinners at Claverach Farm & Vineyard. You will have two dinner options to choose from:
Saturday, September 24 at 6:00pm
Join Chef Kirk for an intimate Seven-Course Tasting Menu paired with five of the favorite boutique wines from his cellar.
Produce from Claverach Farm will provide a starting point for this refined dinner, but the overall menu will feature artisanal foods from Kirk’s favorite producers throughout the country, carefully crafted and served in the barn’s rustically elegant dining room. The evening starts at 6pm with hors d’ouevres and bubbly by the fire pit. The cost is $150.00 per person. This small dinner will have very limited seating,

Sunday, September 25 at 5:00pm
Join Kirk’s Traveling Kitchen for the first autumn installment of the Sunday Supper Series ay Claverach Farm & Vineyard.
The evening starts with a wine apertif from the property’s biodynamic winery and farm fresh hors d’oeuvres, at 6pm we’ll adjorn inside the beautifully restored confines of the “Claverach Barn,” St. Louis’ newest, and one of its most unique, special event venues. The multi-course, family-style menu will feature meat, eggs and produce from this working organic farm prepared by Chef Kirk Warner with a focus on simple cooking techniques designed to take advantage of the farm’s pristine raw materials and the barn’s large wood burning oven and roaring fire pit. The cost is $55.00 per person. (Children’s pricing available.)

Please contact Claverach Farm directly for reservations: 314-808-1651 or joannaduley@yahoo.com

Claverach Farm & Vineyard is located near Eureka, Missouri, less than 30 miles from downtown St.Louis. A detailed map with directions will be emailed to you with your reservation confirmation.

Sunny Santa Fe

2011-09-12T10:37:00.001-07:00

Took a quick trip down to Santa Fe, NM over Labor Day weekend in order to fill my annual green chile fix. Glad to say the culinary capital of the southwest is going strong. There seems to be a youthful resurgence to many of the mainstay establishments (ie. Coyote Cafe, Harry's Roadhouse, etc.) and a slew of newer restaurants doing some great things with local products (at 7000ft. that's no small accomplishment), meaning that America's oldest capital is so much more than Green Chile Adovada now. Of the 10 or so restaurants visited, my favorite would have to be the small Tapas spot called 'la Boca'. One of my favorite dishes served at this highly recommended spot was a trio of spreads/dips served with grilled homemade tortilla. Here is my version of a red pepper spread that would work well all those local peppers out there now.

Recipe Card for Item: Roasted Pepper-Red Lentil “Hummus”

Quantity Produced: Makes 2 Cups

Sweet Peppers, Roasted/Peeled 2 Peppers
Red Lentils, Split 1 Cup
Roasted Garlic 5 Cloves
Roasted Shallot ½ Shallot
Pistachios, Toasted/Crushed ¼ Cup
Extra Virgin Olive Oil (or Garlic Oil) ¼ Cup
Curry Powder 2 Tablespoons
Honey 2 Tablspoons
Salt, Kosher To Taste
Fresh Black Pepper To Taste
Parsley, Minced (optional) 2 Tablspoons
Feta, Crumbled as garnish

Preparation Procedure-

Combine the roasted peppers (peeled & seeded), roasted garlic, shallot and red lentils in medium sauce pan. Cover with stock or water and simmer until lentils are completely tender, 15-20 minutes. Let cool and puree with remaining ingredients, minus pistachios & feta, until smooth. Stir-in pistachios and sprinkle with feta. Serve cold at room temperature with pita chips or veggies.

KTK's Summer Kitchen Lab

2011-07-09T13:48:00.000-07:00

Those of you who work with us on a regular basis know that for many years we've gone north for several weeks in the summer to work with a favorite client from the West Coast who has a home in Saugatuck, Michigan. During this period we prepare a lot of fun dinner parties and cooking classes, but all the while working on new recipes for the coming Autumn/Winter/Spring. I call it the "Kirk's Traveling Kitchen Culinary Lab". Now we're not going all Modernist Cuisine up there, in fact the only foams undoubtedly have something to do with a coffee drink. No, we're tweaking our classic recipes and creating new ones from the most impeccable ingredients we can bring in or find locally (Michigan is quite the agricultural mecca by mid-summer). Here's a recipe we worked on this summer for Coconut Macaroons with Sour Cherries & Sunflower Seeds:

Coconut Macaroons with Tart Cherry & Sunflower Seeds

Quantity Produced: 15-20 Cookies

Sweetened Condensed Milk 2/3 Cup
Egg White 1 Large
Vanilla Extract 1 ½ Teaspoons
Salt 1/8 Teaspoon

Coconut, Flakes, Sweet 3 Cups
Dried Tart Cherries ½ Cup
Salted Sunflower Seeds ¼ Cup

Preparation Procedure-

Preheat oven to 325˚. Combine milk, egg white, vanilla and salt. Mix thoroughly, then add coconut, cherry and sunflower seeds. Bake on parchment lined sheet pan for 20 to 25 minutes.

Cool Start to the Summer in Saugatuck

2011-06-28T18:50:00.001-07:00

As the result of an especially cold spring, for the first time in years there won't be fresh Michigan blueberries for the 4th of July weekend here in Saugatuck, Michigan. Although my suppliers are promising the first berries of the season by July 5. I guess we'll have to wait an extra day to make my favorite blueberry tart.

Fresh Blueberry Tart (or Tartlets)

Graham Cracker Tart Shells

Quantity Produced: Makes 12/ 3oz. Tartlets or 2/ 12” Tarts

Butter, softened 1 Cup
Dark Brown Sugar ¼ Cup
Sugar ¼ Cup
Honey ¼ Cup
Flour 2 Cups
Whole Wheat Flour ½ Cup
Salt 1 Teaspoon
Cinnamon ½ Teaspoon

Preparation Procedure-

In a standing mixer, cream butter & sugar and add honey. Add dry ingredients. Form dough into a disk and chill for 1 hour. Form into tartlets, prick with fork and chill additional 20 minutes. If pre-baking shells, bake for 18-20 minutes at 325˚. Let cool and fill with desired ingredients.

Cream Cheese Pastry Cream & Blueberry Topping (Blueberry Tartlets)

Quantity Produced: Makes 2 Cups or enough for 8-10 Tartlets.

Blueberry Topping
Fresh Blueberries 2 ½ Cups
Sugar 1 Tablespoon

Milk 1 Cup
Sugar 5 Tablespoons
Egg Yolks 4
Cornstarch 2 ½ Tablespoons
Cream Cheese, Cubed ¾ Cup
Vanilla Extract 1 Teaspoon
Heavy Cream, Whipped ½ Cup

Preparation Procedure-
To make to blueberry topping combine 1 cup of blueberries in a saucepan, add 1 tablespoon of sugar and cook over low heat until the berries burst. Strain into a medium bowl, discard solids, and toss remaining blueberries with blueberry syrup. Reserve at room temperature.

Combine ¾ cup milk and 3 tablespoons sugar in medium saucepan. Bring to a simmer. In a large bowl whisk together yolks, cornstarch and remaining 2 tablespoons sugar. Whisk ¼ cup milk into egg mixture. Remove milk from heat and temper egg mixture. Return to stove and bring to a boil. Cook until it thickens, then add cream cheese and vanilla and whisk until it’s smooth. Strain through sieve, cover and chill. When completely chilled mix until smooth and add whipped cream. Use as base for blueberry tartlets or anywhere pastry cream would be used.

Inaugural Sunday Supper at Claverach Farm

2011-06-16T11:51:00.000-07:00

We had a wonderful time doing the inaugural Sunday Supper at Claverach Farm in Eureka, Missouri. A beautiful venue (and working organic farm and winery) we look forward to working many future events there. In fact we're already in discussions for a dinner series this autumn. Stay tuned! For those who missed the dinner here was the menu:

Sunday Supper Menu for June 12 at Claverach Farm & Vineyard with Kirk’s Traveling Kitchen
Seasonal Apertif from Claverach Vineyard
Assorted Passed Farm Fresh Hors d’Oeuvres
...
Olive-Oil Poached Tuna with Fresh Fava Beans, Gribiche & Micro Arugula
Wood-Oven Roasted Loin of Missouri Pork with Coarse Bread Crumb Crust & Pan Juices
Crispy New Potato Hash with Spring Onion & Fleur de Sel Pit Roasted Missouri Chicken with Paddy Pan Squash & Salsa Verde Field Greens with Breakfast Radish & Verjus Vinaigrette Hearth Baked Bread with Traditional Garnishes
...
Fresh Rhubarb Cake with Sweet Strawberries & Clabbered Sweet Cream
Make Your own S’More’s over the Fire Pit: Homemade Marshmallows, Kirk’s Cinnamon Sugar Graham Crackers Milk & Dark Chocolate

Holiday in the Sunbaked Cote d'Azur

2011-06-16T11:12:00.000-07:00

From Fayence to Saint-Paul-de-Vence it was sunbaked bliss, and lots of tomato, eggplant & herbs. Here's a recipe we made in the wood burning oven of our rental house (albeit using indigenous Mediterranean sea bass instead of swordfish).

Braised Swordfish with Crushed Tomatoes & White Beans

Quantity Produced: Serves 6

Swordfish or Grouper Fillets 6 / 4-5 oz Pieces
Wondra Flour for Dredging 1 Cup
Kosher Salt & Fresh Black Pepper As Needed

Ripe Tomatoes (Not Soft), Scored 5 Medium
Sweet Onion, Diced 1 ¼ Cups
Red Wine Vinegar ¼ Cup
Garlic, Minced 2 Small Cloves
Sugar ¼ Cup
Freshly Ground Black Pepper and Kosher Salt To Taste

Pancetta or Bacon, Chopped 3-4oz.
Lemon Zest and Juice 1 Lemon
Cannellini Beans, Cooked 2 Cups
Italian Parsley, Minced 2 Tablespoons
Salt & Pepper as needed
Chicken Stock or Water ¼ to ½ Cup
Oil-Cured Black Olives (optional) ½ Cup Pitted

Preparation Procedure- Preheat oven to 350˚.
Make the tomato braise, bring a pot of water to a boil. Prep a bowl of ice water. Drop scored tomatoes into boiling water until skins peel back about 30 seconds to 2 minutes. Transfer to ice water to cool. When tomatoes are cool enough to handle peel off skin and cut into 1/4 . Seed tomatoes, remove cores and dice. Set aside. In a small sauce pan with a tablespoon of olive oil, sweat garlic and onion until translucent, 4 minutes. Add red wine vinegar and sugar, stirring to dissolve sugar. Bring mixture to a boil and add chopped, peeled and seeded tomatoes. Reduce temperature to medium and cook, stirring frequently, until slightly thick 15 to 20 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

New Programme at Brocket Hall, UK

2011-06-16T07:02:00.000-07:00

I delivered a new interactive culinary programme (sp, but when in Rome) at a stunning old manor just outside London. Brocket Hall is a 300 year old private event venue that is famous in recent history for acting as the backdrop for the filming of "Pride and Prejudice" (that would be the Colin Firth version ladies). It is now a very swank boutique hotel and conference center, that graciously allowed us to facilitate two separate culinary programmes over several days. Our In Vino Veritas Wine Challenge opened up the festivities, and we followed that with a new option Just Call Them Small Plates Culinary Challenge: From Tapas & Mezze to Dim Sum. Here's how I describe it:

An exercise in multi-cultural understanding, each team is assigned a table with one or two appetizer recipes specific to a general culinary, and geographic, region (for example: “Asia” or “Europe”). Their task is to complete the recipes, but first each team must align with another group to exchange one of their ingredients. The aim is to balance cultural accuracy and common sense to the recipes (ie. we don’t necessarily want to swap ricotta cheese for soy sauce) with innovation and risk taking.The objectives of the “Just Call Them Small Plates” Culinary Challenge: honing salesmanship and negotiation skills, emphasizing cultural awareness and the ability to work in a fluid environment.

We are back!

2011-06-15T08:12:00.000-07:00

Kirk’s Traveling Kitchen blog is back online. Check back soon for updates!

Ahh Spring...

2010-04-09T13:50:00.000-07:00

Time to make some Grilled Asparagus Salsa Verde.

Grilled Asparagus Salsa Verde

Makes 3 Cups

Asparagus, Final 1/3 Peeled 1#
Pappadew Peppers, Diced ½ Cup
Pappadew Pepper Brine 1/3 Cup
Capers, Soaked in Cold Water 4oz.
Anchovy, Soaked/Minced 2 Fillets
Shallots, Sliced Thin 2 Small
Garlic, Hand Minced 3 Cloves
Chives, Minced 2 Tablespoons
Italian Parsley, Minced 2 Tablespoons
Extra Virgin Olive Oil ½ Cup
Salt & Fresh Pepper To Taste

Preparation Procedure-

Heat Grill to High. Toss trimmed/peeled asparagus spears with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Cook on hottest part of the grill until just marked and just barely cooked through. Remove from grill, allow to cool and dice into ½” pieces. Combine with remaining ingredients, mix thoroughly. Keeps 2 days.

Fabulous Culinary Event Center

2010-02-28T07:51:00.000-08:00

Had a great experience delivering a interactive cooking experience in Dallas with the wonderful professionals at Milestone Culinary Arts Center/Viking Cooking School. Their great facilities and wonderful staff were invaluable to the success of our event. If you live in the Dallas/Ft. Worth area it's definitely a place to take a cooking class (open to the general public), here is their link:

Favorite New Ingredient

2009-12-22T08:22:00.000-08:00

I'm ecstatic to announce the birth of my daughter, Ellie Florence Warner. Our first child, she weighed in at 7# 2oz. and was born on December 7 at 4:21pm.

"What's Missing" in Dallas, Texas

2009-12-22T07:56:00.000-08:00

Had an opportunity to deliver one of my interactive culinary events for a client in Dallas, Texas recently. We used the culinary center at one of the great Central Markets in Dallas. What a great store, incredible variety with a great selection or artisanal foods from around Texas and the Southwest. They also were a pleasure to work with as we utilized their kitchen facility for the culinary program and borrowed a few of their chefs to facilitate the event. That event, my "What's Missing" Culinary Challenge, has long been among my most popular executive training options that involve cooking. In a nutshell:

Even a novice cook can make something delicious from a successful recipe. However, what if the recipe is incomplete or missing an ingredient? The “What’s Missing” Culinary Challenge explores your team’s abilities to overcome obstacles by creating a menu from recipes where key ingredients have been omitted. The challenge is in determining the missing ingredient or working together to come up with an ingredient that fits even better. The objectives of the “What’s Missing” Culinary Challenge: nurturing a creative mindset within a group dynamic, improving problem solving skills in a fluid environment, community building and having fun.

What makes this event so popular is that the participants aren't merely following the cues of a complete recipe or an iron chef, they actually need to make creative choices to complete their dishes. And as is often the case, I had one team member who substituted an ingredient that worked even better than the "missing" ingredient from the original recipe.

Here's that recipe, a winter vegetable tiello (kind of like ratatouille, but heartier). The subbed ingredient is in bold (in the original recipe it is red wine vinegar):

Autumn Vegetable Tiello

Quantity Produced: Serves 6-8 as Side

Olive Oil, EV 6 Tablespoons
Butternut Squash, Cut in 1 ½” Chunks 1 Medium Squash
Red Pepper, Cut in 1 ½ “ Chunks 1 Medium
Carrot, Peeled/Cut in 1 ½” Chunks 3 Carrots
Onion, Peeled/Cut in 1 ½” Chunks 1 Medium
Celery, Peeled/Cut in 1 ½’ Chunks 2 Stalks
Honey 3 Tablespoons
Lemon Juice, Fresh 3 Tablespoons
Kosher Salt To Taste
Fresh Black Pepper To Taste

Italian Plum Tomatoes 1/ 12oz. Can
Roasted Chestnut Puree 3 Tablespoons
Honey or Sugar 2 Tablespoons
Oregano, Dried 2 Teaspoons

Preparation Procedure-

Preheat oven to 450d.. Using 2 tablespoons of the oil, grease a roasting pan just large enough to hold vegetables comfortably. Toss vegetables with remaining oil, lemon juice, salt & pepper. Drizzle with honey. Roast vegetables, stirring occasionally, until tender 15 minutes. Remove from oven and allow to cool. While the vegetables are cooking, in a small heavy-bottomed sauce pan combine tomatoes, chestnut puree, honey/sugar and oregano. Cook over medium high heat until thick and tomatoes have broken up 15 minutes. Season to taste and pour over the roasted vegetables. Roast in oven for additional 15 to 20 minutes or until glazed and soft.

Dispatches from Bordeaux, France

2009-11-05T12:27:00.000-08:00

Whoever says what I do isn't tough, should try flying for 18-hours straight and then start wine tasting! Let me tell you, it isn't for the faint of heart : ). Some of the estates visited during my several days in Bordeaux include: Chateaux Pichon Longueville, Chateau Smith Haut Lafite, Chateau Beychevelle, among others. But rather than bore you with a bunch of blurry wine tasting notes, I will share with you a fine recipe from my lone evening cooking in Bordeaux (However, if you're into wine futures go with the 2009 wines from Pauillac). Made from some crusty old bread and farmer's market greens, this gooey, delicious French panade, or bread pudding, is perfect for any country's cool autumn.

Swiss Chard and Tomato Panade
serves 6-8

Extra Virgin Olive Oil ½ Cup
Onion, Peeled/Julienned 6 Cups
Garlic, Minced 6 Cloves
Swiss Chard, Thick Ribs Removed 1#
Ripe or Oven-Dried Tomatoes, Diced 1 Cup
1” Cubes Bread, Crusty 10 Cups
Kosher Salt & Fresh Black Pepper to taste
Chicken Stock, Warm 4 Cups
Fontina Cheese, Shredded 6-8oz.
Reggiano Parmesan, Grated (optional) ¼ Cup

Preparation Procedure: Preheat oven to 325˚.

In large, heavy-bottomed skillet heat oil and add onion. Lightly brown over medium-high heat. Add garlic and continue to cook, lowering the heat to medium. When onion is soft and slightly caramelized, add swiss chard and cook until wilted, 3-5 min.. In a large casserole dish add small amount of onion mixture and top with some tomatoes, fontina cheese and cubed bread. Continue layering until all ingredients are used. Top with hot stock and grated parmesan cheese. Cover with parchment and aluminum foil. Bake for 1 hour. Remove foil and parchment and bake additional 45 minutes. Serve hot.

Dreary Old London is Now SUNNY

2009-11-05T11:31:00.000-08:00

I especially love the city of London, UK. The whole English culinary culture is thoroughly exciting (and I'm not being sarcastic in writing this), especially if you consider it's excellent and varied artisanal foods, multicultural influences and exceptional chef-driven restaurants. Considering this variety and quality, I can think of few cities where I would rather eat than London (and I've eaten in quite a few). So when I was in the capital of the UK recently to deliver a team building program I was fully prepared to deal with what, besides the value of the US dollar to the British pound, is usually the negative part of visiting the isle: its weather. I had my rain slicker and was fully anticipating being 'damp' for the three days of my stay. Well, let me tell you something, with a few hour rainy exception the weather was simply.. lovely. So I left my rain overcoat at home, and made my way to a few new outstanding restaurants. Here are the highlights:

The River Cafe- A longtime London institution, The River Cafe has been pumping out creative, yet authentic, regional Italian food for decades (Jamie Oliver trained there, and doesn't he OWN the UK now?). In much the way Chez Panisse of Zuni Cafe is an institution of N. Californian cuisine, I think of The River Cafe as the perfect example of how the modern Brit likes to eat. Fresh, varied and creative, my meal there was both simple and unforgettable. A hard combination! It's not inexpensive, even before the conversion to PS, and can still be hard to get a reservation for, but if you want to see what so many of the new British restaurants are aspiring for you must visit at least once.

Hix Oyster and Chop House- For a modern, proper British steakhouse meal, I think it would be hard to beat Hix's. The menu is very similar to new age brasserie/gastro pub/retro steakhouse, in that it has creative, well-sourced British standards (Gamey Brown Windsor Soup anyone?) a vibrant, retro atmosphere. The venue reminded me of my days at King Louie's in that everyone was eating dinner at the bar and they all knew one another (more than one my bar mates apologized for there not being enough stools for my party, even though we were merely waiting for our table. Clearly, if you pull up to that bar you're there for the long haul). The oysters were as good as I've had, we tried delicious rabbit speck, and split a South Devon porterhouse steak (and while British meat is not widely regarded, this was a spectacular cut). Plan on finishing with some treacle tart and cobnut cheesecake.

Dispatch from Kansas City

2009-11-05T10:06:00.000-08:00

It seems odd, but despite living only three or so hours away I had never visited Kansas City. I'd driven through on many occasions, and flown over the city even more, yet there are cities in Europe I was more familiar with than the "town of Kansas" on the West side of the state where I live. So when I ended up there for a few days in the early fall, I wasn't sure what to expect. I knew about the BBQ, which is not my favorite type (too thick & smokey), and about the Jazz, not exactly a connoisseur there either, and had heard quite a bit about the culinary scene developing in the city and it's strong cultural center. Anyway, here are the food highlights of the excursion:

Justus Drugstore a Restaurant (Smithville, MO)- This evolving mecca of farm to table cuisine in nearby Smithville (about 20 minutes North of KC) is quite a treat. Just about the only vibrant place in a one stop light town, it kind of reminded me of where I grew up in Paw Paw, Michigan (although I'm told they're up to three or four stop lights now!). The space is tiny with an open kitchen and elaborate bar set up. It's certainly a locale to visit if you're of the evolving cocktail culture, as their bar team infuses gins and reinvents all sorts of heirloom libations. However the star here is the food, with a limited menu consisting entirely of locally sourced meats, produce and other foodstuffs. I've been partial to goat as a meat for awhile, ever since I had Mark Vetri's braised version in Philadelphia, but I had yet to see it on a menu in Missouri. As a nightly special at Justus' it was one of several delicious and imaginative offerings, also including: Berkshire Pork Mixed Grill; Rabbit & Campo Lindo Chicken. This place is well worth the trip. Also I'm told there is a separate, more casual, menu for the locals. I can't wait to go back and see what that's all about.

Oklahoma Joe's BBQ- I've already established that I'm traditionally not a huge fan of KC style BBQ. I find the sauces too thick and smokey, that they overpower a properly 'cued' piece of meat. So while Oklahoma Joe's BBQ hasn't made me a complete convert, I would certainly go back (often). Located on the rear of a gas station, plan on waiting in line for 20-30 minutes to place your order, at this foodies mecca. They don't try anything fancy, but certainly do the basics with aplomb. The brisket and pulled pork are outstanding, and the burnt ends looked incredible (these are the crispy ends of the BBQ meat). They also have a lot of napkins at your disposal!!

Going Brooklyn

2009-07-23T12:18:00.000-07:00

I came to a funny realization walking around Brooklyn, New York last month. Almost every young guy, and in Williamsburg, Brooklyn everybody's young, was wearing a beard, large sunglasses and an ironic themed t-shirt. I've since dubbed it "Going Brooklyn". Another aspect of "Going Brooklyn" these days is being involved in some sort of artisanal culinary business. The New York Times did a long expose last spring about the similarities between the outer boroughs of NYC and the food scene in San Francisco in the 1970's. You remember that scene: Alice Waters, Chez Panisse, Jeremiah Tower, Mark Miller, etc. A pretty significant comparison I thought. But today's brooklyn might just be able to pull it off, I mean there are a lot of interesting, creative, from-scratch food shops and restaurants all over Brooklyn right now. Among the many that I visited was Marlow & Sons, a restaurant and very tiny market that reminded me all the world of an East coast version of Zuni Cafe (they even have the signature chicken dish). An extremely fun spot, that is said to always be hopping, I found myself wishing it was located down the street from me. Like so many other spots in Brooklyn, it's a lot of substance with a dash of hipster style thrown in. I highly recommend stopping by for a visit (no reservations) or perhaps check out the NYT article link and find another Brooklyn gem so that you can say you were a part of the "Brooklyn Culinary Revolution".

The Details-
New York Times Article:

Marlow & Sons:

Summertime Market

2009-07-23T10:39:00.001-07:00

Back in Western Michigan and happy to say I've found a great new source for local produce, much of it organic. An adorable little roadside market with more than a modicum of taste and attention to detail (each type of produce has a chalk slate identifying how far it traveled from its farm). So if you're traveling through Saugatuck/Douglas be sure to stop by the Summertime Market on Blue Star Highway to stock up on the bounty of Michigan. Here are the specifics:

http://summertimemarket.blogspot.com/

And here is something I made with some of their products:

Fresh Watermelon-Tomato Salsa

Quantity Produced: Makes 1 ½ Quarts

Ripe Tomato, Blanched/Peeled/Seeded/Diced 1 Large Tomato (1 ½ Cups)
Ripe Tomato, Diced 1 Large Tomato (1 ½ Cups)
Watermelon, Seeded/Diced 3 Cups, Approximately
Shallot or Red Onion, Julienned 2/3 Cup (1/2 Medium Onion/2 Shallots)
Cucumber, Peeled/Seeded/Diced (Optional) 1 Cup (1/2 Medium Cucumber)
Thai or Serrano Chile, Seeded/Minced 1 /2” Chile
Garlic, Minced 1 Large Clove
Cilantro, Stemmed/Minced ½ Cup
Basil (Purple or Green), Stemmed/Minced ¼ Cup
Lime Juice, Fresh 2 Tablespoons (1 Juicy Lime)
Extra Virgin Olive Oil 3 Tablespoons
Salt & Fresh Pepper To Taste

Preparation Procedure-

Combine, mix thoroughly. Keeps 5 days.

Grilling at Altitude

2009-07-23T10:29:00.000-07:00

I took a brief sojourn from Saugatuck, Michigan to work an event near the top of the earth in Crested Butte, Colorado. Cooking at over 10,000 feet can be trouble if you're a baker, but for the savory cook, especially one cooking over flame, it's divine. Less oxygen means that your open fire won't flare-up as much and should cook slow and easy, just what you want when preparing large cuts of meat for a big group of people. Here's a recipe from my mountain top event that works just as well at or near sea level. This Grilled Asparagus Salsa Verde goes great with any type of meat, fowl or fish; and is also delicious on its own.

Grilled Asparagus Salsa Verde

Quantity Produced: Makes 3 Cups

Asparagus, Final 1/3 Peeled 1#
Pappadew Peppers, Diced ½ Cup
Pappadew Pepper Brine 1/3 Cup
Capers, Soaked in Cold Water 4oz.
Anchovy, Soaked/Minced 2 Fillets
Shallots, Sliced Thin 2 Small
Garlic, Hand Minced 3 Cloves
Chives, Minced 2 Tablespoons
Italian Parsley, Minced 2 Tablespoons
Extra Virgin Olive Oil ½ Cup
Salt & Fresh Pepper To Taste

Preparation Procedure-

Heat Grill to High. Toss trimmed/peeled asparagus spears with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Cook on hottest part of the grill until just marked and just barely cooked through. Remove from grill, allow to cool and dice into ½” pieces. Combine with remaining ingredients, mix thoroughly. Keeps 2 days.

Saugatuck Summer

2009-07-23T10:18:00.000-07:00

All of a sudden it's July, which means that I'm spending a lot of time on the West side of Michigan in Saugatuck. And the summer doesn't officially start here until I've made my St. Louis Style BBQ Spare Ribs. Here's the recipe, so that while I get to enjoy the lake, cool breeze and stunning sunsets at least you get to have some tasty 'cue. (St. Louis style are spare ribs that have the tips cut off of the rib rack to make for a more rectangular shape and easier cooking).

Kirk's Ginger BBQ Glazed St. Louis Style Spare Ribs

Serves 8

Pork Spare Ribs, Preferably St. Louis-Style 3 Slabs
Favorite Spice Rub ½ Cup
Water or Stock 6 cups

BBQ Sauce: 4+ Cups

Open Pit BBQ Sauce 1 / 14 oz. containter
Soy Sauce ½ Cup
Brown Sugar 1 Cup
Ginger, Peeled/Pureed ½ Cup
Garlic, Minced 3 Tablespoons
Horseradish 3 Tablespoons

Preparation Procedure- Preheat oven to 300˚.
In a large roasting pan place spare ribs, coat with spice rub and surround with water or stock. Cover with parchment and foil. Bake for 2 ½ to 3 hours. Remove from pan, reserve drippings for another use, and allow to cool. Raise temperature on oven to 400˚. Preheat grill to high, when ribs are cool and firm enough to handle place on grill. Cook for 10 per side until the meat caramelizes. Glaze with sauce and cook additional 5 minutes, keeping an eye on the meat so it doesn’t burn. Finish in oven for additional 5 to 10 minutes until sauce glazes meat.

For BBQ sauce, mix ingredients thoroughly and refrigerate. Keeps for up to two weeks.

Whole Hog

2009-07-23T09:56:00.000-07:00

I taught an all day "Whole Hog" class a few weeks ago and just liked this picture. But instead of just leaving it at that, I'm also including my recipe for braised fresh bacon (aka. pork belly). Enjoy!

Braised Fresh “Bacon” (aka. Pork Belly)

Quantity Produced: Serves 4 as an Appetizer

Ingredients:

Pork Belly, Skin-On 2#
Vegetable Oil As Needed
Kosher Salt & Fresh Black Pepper As Needed

Onion, Peeled/Chopped 1
Carrots, Peeled/Chopped 2
Celery Stalks, Peeled/Chopped 2
Leek, Trimmed/Chopped 1
Garlic Cloves, Peeled/Smashed 2

Chicken Stock 3 Cups

Preparation Procedure: Preheat Oven to 350˚.
Heat oil in large oven proof pan over medium heat. Season pork and add it, fat side down, to pan. Cook until skin is browned, about 15 minutes, then transfer pork to a plate. Pour off all but 2 Tablespoons of the fat, then add vegetables and cook until tender and beginning to brown, about 20 minutes. Return the pork belly to the pan, fat side up, and add about 2 cups of stock. Bring stock to a simmer and transfer the pan to the oven. Cook uncovered for 1 hour, then add other cup of stock. Continue cooking until pork is tender enough to cut with a fork, about 1 hour longer. Allow pork to cool in braising liquid. Remove and discard the skin, then score and cut the pork in equal sized pieces. Increase the oven to 400˚, strain braising liquid, discarding solids and return to the skillet over high heat. Bring liquid to a simmer and skim off fat. Return pork to the skillet, fat side up, to the skillet. Transfer the skillet to the oven and cook, without basting until the pork is heated through and nicely browned, about 20 minutes. Serve pork with braising liquid.

Love that Neighborhood.

2009-07-23T09:31:00.000-07:00

I've always said that, for me, the thing that truly distinguishes New York City as a restaurant city from other cities around the country (or world for that matter) is the breadth of small, outstanding neighborhood restaurants there. This was especially true when I was in NYC recently and had an opportunity to dine at Frankies Spuntino at 17 Clinton Street on the lower East side. A satellite of another popular restaurant in Brooklyn (Frankies 457), this tiny spot, with probably no more than 20 seats, just happened to have some availability on a Sunday afternoon when the other restaurant we'd been planning to visit was unexpectedly closed. With its succinct Italian influenced menu, rustic decor and the cutest, closet-esque kitchen this chef has ever seen, Frankies was the perfect spot for some Sunday afternoon antipasti, Vino Bianco and pasta. Check out their website for more details and be sure to pick up a can of their fragrant house olive oil (also available at many NYC markets).

The Details-
Frankies Spuntino: http://www.frankiesspuntino.com

(You must also visit the just opened Highline Park on the Lower West Side, pictured above: http://www.thehighline.org )

Philly Cheesesteak with Gravlox?

2009-07-23T09:04:00.000-07:00

I posted recently about visiting the premiere Swedish restaurant in NYC, Aquavit, and experiencing their smorgasbord. As a true connoisseur of everything pickled (including herring), I jumped at the opportunity to visit my good friend Chris Van Bergen in Philadelphia recently as he was introducing his world famous smorgasbord in a new springtime setting. Usually associated with winter, or perhaps Sweden where it seems to be winter 10 months of the year, I was happy to find out that the delicacies of smorgasbord (varieties of pickled herring, cured salmon, meatballs, etc.) translate very well to a warmer time of year. Now Chris, an excellent cook, decided to play it safe and stick with the smorgasbord standards ( a slight pun on his profession as a classically trained musician), and thankfully didn't try to introduce any Swedish fusion. Although I did wonder how a combining Philly's most famous food (cheesesteak sandwich) with the staple of smorgasbord (gravlox) would look: Gravlox "Cheesesteak" with Citrus Cured Salmon, Molten Boursin Cheese, Caramelized Scallions on Soft Pumpernickel Hoagie. However, don't look for it on a Traveling Kitchen menu anytime soon.

Here's a great recipe for curing your own Salmon (Gravlox).

Citrus Cured Salmon

Quantity Produced: For 5# Fish Fillet (Extra Can Be Frozen)

Salmon or A. Char Fillet, Skin-on 5 #
Brown Sugar 5 Cups
Kosher Salt 10 Cups
Fennel, Sliced Thin (Bulb + Fronds) 3
Parsley, Minced ½ Cup
Tarragon, Minced (optional) ¼ Cup
Coriander Seed 2/3 Cup
Fennel Seed 2/3 Cup
White Pepper 2 ½ Teaspoons
Lemon Zest 4 Lemons
Orange Zest 3 Oranges
Lime Zest 5 Limes

Preparation Procedure-

Combine fish cure in a large bowl. Cover fish on both sides with cure, make sure to use it all, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 24 hours. After 24 hours, drain off liquid that has collected in pan and cure for additional 12 to 24 hours (12 hours for arctic char fillet, 24 for thick salmon fillet). Rinse off cure, pat fish dry with paper towel and refrigerate until ready to slice.

Westchester Wedding

2009-07-23T08:27:00.000-07:00

We at Kirk's Traveling Kitchen had a great experience doing an intimate spring wedding in Mount Kisco, New York (right down the road from Martha Stewart's place) in late May. The menu was comprised of many of the best delicacies spring has to offer: leg of local lamb, Wild Salmon, and a melange of Union Square greenmarket veggies. One benefit of doing this event an hour or so outside of NYC was the opportunity to visit one of the most interesting and ground breaking restaurants currently operating on the East coast. Blue Hill at Stone Barns is both an exceptional restaurant and working organic farm (Stone Barns Center for Food and Agriculture), located on a portion of the former Rockefeller estate in Pocantico Hills. Taking a page from previous groundbreaking farm to table restaurants like Chez Panisse, all of the food prepared at BHSB is from local farmers/ranchers. The big difference though is that BHSB actually GROWS its own produce and RAISES its own livestock. One of the advantages (or disadvantages depending on your dining perspective) is that there are no menus at BHSB. You get what is best on that day, which makes for a fun and relaxing way to dine in my book. For disciples of local eating, actually having the opportunity to see the produce you'll be consuming or perhaps pet the animal that will grace your plate at dinner is pretty cool. Whether or not you find this type of experience exhilarating or freaky, you'll have to admit it certainly beats the average grocery store experience of cryovaced vegetables and pale meat wrapped in plastic on foam trays.

Here are the links to everything Stone Barns-
Blue Hill at Stone Barns: http://www.bluehillfarm.com
Stone Barns Center for Food and Agriculture: http://www.stonebarnscenter.org/

Here's a great Lamb Recipe for spring or summer.

Grilled Leg of Lamb Provencal

Quantity Produced: Serves 4-6

Leg of Lamb, Boneless 1 / 6-7# Leg
Garlic Cloves, Peeled 12-16 Peeled
Sea Salt 2 Teaspoons
Fresh Black Pepper 3-4 Teaspoons
Fresh Rosemary 2 Sprigs, Trimmed
Olive Oil ¾ Cup
Herbs de Provence 1-2 Teaspoons
Fresh Mint 4-6 Leaves

Preparation Procedure-
Place leg of lamb with the fat side up. Cut 6-8 deep slits in top. Insert garlic cloves into each slit. Dust with 2 teaspoons sea salt. Dust liberally with 2 or 3 teaspoons pepper. Insert 2 pieces of fresh rosemary into the same slits that you cut into the lamb earlier. Coat entire surface of the lamb with olive oil. Sprinkle 1-2 teaspoons Herbs De Provence. Also add a few pieces of fresh mint into each slit.
 Cook over indirect heat on your covered grill - approx. 10 minute per pound, until done.

The Pleasure of Fried...

2009-05-14T11:58:00.000-07:00

During a short stay working an event in Annapolis recently, I was reminded of the pleasures of fried shellfish. I have fond memories of the various clam shacks of Maine, the ones that seem to dot the harbor in every community (like the ticket booth in a parking lot "you've had your fried littlenecks and lobster roll, you can go now"), or, growing up on Lake Michigan, the springtime ritual of fried smelts. (Small fish that are literally scooped out of the water and tossed into a caldron of hot oil on the beach, destined to be washed down with merely some hot sauce and canned beer.) My stay in Maryland didn't allow me much free time, but the time I had involved a healthy amount, or unhealthy if you want to be picky, of fried oysters and crab at the various seafood dives walking distance from my hotel. It got me thinking about how people rightfully associate things like morels or asparagus as the culinary rite of spring, but forget about the fried oysters and clams. After a long winter of oysters on the half shell or chowder, I can't help but celebrate the spring thaw with those same raw materials breaded and fried. In the spirit of that here's my recipe for a simple cornmeal breading that's perfect for all types of shellfish.

Cornmeal Breading for Fried Shellfish

Quantity Produced: 2 Qts.

Flour 5 Cups
Cornmeal, Fine 2 Cups
Cornstarch ½ Box (about 1 Cup)
Seasoning Salt ¼ Cup
Garlic or Onion Powder 3 Tablespoons

Preparation Procedure-

Mix thoroughly. Keep in a cool, dry place.

My Kind of Pub

2009-01-22T12:00:00.000-08:00

This past weekend found me in tropical Chicago (it seems I spend a lot of time in the windy city in the winter, when the weather couldn't be nastier), and tops on my list of food places to visit was the new restaurant by Paul Kahan's team: The Publican. For those not familiar with the Windy City's food scene, Paul Kahan is the chef/owner of cutting edge restaurants Avec and Blackbird. The Publican, once again in the West Loop neighborhood, has both similarities and differences with Kahan's other restaurants. It focuses on artisanal beers and even more artisanal foods (especially all things swine), but is in a massive space larger than Avec and Blackbird combined. The Publican has a postmodern beer hall vibe, a spartan barn with hipster servers, minimalist food and the most erudite beer list known to man. And this could pose a problem if everything wasn't handled so well. The beer list could have proven indecipherable, and this from someone who drinks too much artisanal beer, if not for the beer steward who literally camped out at our table to provide recommendations and suggestions. He introduced us to an exceptional Schwarzbier from Monchshof in Germany as well as a Charles Wells Bombardier, a darker ale from the UK. The food at The Publican is prepared with the same "farm to table" focus as Avec, the wonderful Mediterranean influenced small plates restaurant on Randolph St.. The food at The Publican is designed to be shared and is offered with the same "grazing" philosophy as many small plates restaurants (ie. food comes out as it's ready in the kitchen, rather than in courses). As someone who loves this manner of eating (I think it makes for a more relaxed and casual experience) it's perfect, but it's not for everyone so you may not want to take your rigid, old-school Aunt Tess. I would go back simply to have the steamed mussels, which happen to be some of the best I've ever had, and farm-raised chicken over frites, wonderfully simply and hearty. If you find yourself in Chicago soon, wrap that scarf tight and trudge over to 837 W. Fulton Market, the good people at The Publican will certainly offer you respite and more than a few remedies for what "ales" you.

www.thepublicanrestaurant.com

A Smorgasbord for Believers

2009-01-07T07:20:00.000-08:00

Like most other food people I know, I don't like buffet-style eating in restaurants. Among family and friends in the comfort of someone's home is fine, in fact it often gives the party a rustic, family-style quality, but not at restaurants. A buffet at a restaurant always reminds me of the scary, chain-restaurant salad bars of my Western Michigan upbringing (the 'sneeze guard' alone would cause me to lose my appetite). Yet on a recent trip to New York at the nouvelle-Swedish restaurant Aquavit I not only found my ideal restaurant buffet, but what is clearly my desired way to enjoy a Sunday brunch.

Instead of the standard weekend "eggs benedict focused" brunch buffet, Aquavit offers an elaborate, creative Smorgasbord spread. For those not familiar with a Swedish Smorgasbord it is typically a multi-coursed buffet dinner that starts with herring and cheese; then moves to cured and smoked meats and salmon; onto meatballs with lingonberry, venison and gratin potatoes; and concludes with a variety of sweets. I first experienced a classic smorgasbord via a good friend with Swedish ancestry. The thing that appealed to me most about the occasion, even more than the delicious and varied foods, was the gathering of good friends and family at the darkest and coldest time of year (about half the calendar year in Scandinavia). Add a healthy amount of Glogg (mulled wine), Carlsberg Beer and Aquavit (a distilled spirit often flavored with caraway or dill); and you'll understand how those Swedes get their reputation for partying. If you find yourself in New York City on a Sunday morning over the next several months I highly recommend succumbing to this wonderful wintertime tradition.

Aquavit 65 East 55th Street (Btwn. Park and Madison Ave.) www.aquavit.org

Here's a great recipe for gravlox (cured salmon):

Gravlox
Makes 2-3# of Gravlox

Salmon or A. Char Fillet, Skin-on 5 #
Brown Sugar 5 Cups
Kosher Salt 10 Cups
Fennel, Sliced Thin (Bulb + Fronds) 3
Parsley, Minced ½ Cup
Tarragon, Minced (optional) ¼ Cup
Coriander Seed 2/3 Cup
Fennel Seed 2/3 Cup
White Pepper 2 ½ Teaspoons
Lemon Zest 4 Lemons
Orange Zest 3 Oranges
Lime Zest 5 Limes

Preparation Procedure-

Combine fish cure in a large bowl. Cover fish on both sides with cure, make sure to use it all, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 24 hours. After 24 hours, drain off liquid that has collected in pan and cure for additional 12 to 24 hours (12 hours for arctic char fillet, 24 for thick salmon fillet). Rinse off cure, pat fish dry with paper towel and refrigerate until ready to slice. Extra cured fish freezes well, wrap thoroughly in plastic wrap and place in zip-lock bag.

The Perfect Roast Chicken

2008-12-17T11:08:00.000-08:00

As the weather gets more blustery, and the economy more crappy, it's time for the ultimate in comfort foods: the Roast Chicken. For me there is nothing more satisfying than a good roast chicken when all you want to do is build a fire and curl up with a good book (or a good cable TV show). Yet, as many chefs will tell you, there are easier kitchen tricks than roasting a perfect bird, it can be a challenge to get the skin crisp while keeping the meat juicy. Here's my version:

Roast Chicken

Serves 6-8 (Entrée Portions)
Fresh Chicken, Seasoned with Kosher Salt/Fresh Pepper
& Fresh Thyme and Parsley Sprig under skin 3# Whole
Kosher Salt 2 Teaspoons Appx.
Freshly Ground Black Pepper As Needed

Preparation Procedure-
Preheat oven to 475˚. Rinse chicken with cold water and THOROUGHLY dry with paper towel. Put a thyme sprig under skin of each breast section. Season completely with salt and fresh black pepper. Refrigerate for 30 minutes if time allows.

Preheat a heavy bottomed skillet or roasting pan on your stove and heat until hot. Wipe and moisture from chicken and set it breast side up in hot pan. Place in center of hot oven and bake for 30 minutes. Turn the chickens onto breasts and roast another 30 minutes. Check to see if chickens are cooked, using thermometer or twisting leg sections (turn easily=done). Remove chicken to a plate and allow to cool. Drain juices from roasting into a clear measuring cup and refrigerate. Place skillet on stove and deglaze with water over medium high heat. Strain and mix with juices from roasting (minus the fat). Refrigerate for 10 days or freeze for 3 months.

Great Seafood in Athens

2008-12-08T15:22:00.001-08:00

You would think getting incredible seafood in a huge Mediterranean city like Athens, Greece would be like getting a good steak in Nebraska. Well it's not as easy as you'd think (in either place for that matter). So after quite a few mediocre meals over several days, I had all but given up on the prospect of finding a top-notch seafood joint in this massive city (what would Homer have thought?). Alas, on my last day in country I found an outstanding, mom-n-pop restaurant that had relocated to Athens from their original location on Paros. The chef/owner Argyro (what a great Greek name!) creates incredible dishes using local fish like sting ray, octopus and langoustine. Finally a seafood venue worthy of the culture that would launched a thousand ships for a pretty face.

Papadakis
Fokilidou 15 and Voukourestiou
Athens
30-210/360-8621

My Big Fat Greek Kitchen

2008-12-08T10:51:00.000-08:00

Every time I travel abroad I’m reminded of just how cross-cultural our world has become. While there are certainly unique cultural experiences everywhere, if you want a consistent time as a world traveler it’s remarkably easy today. I’m posting this just after delivering an interactive culinary challenge I developed call Sushi Factory (SF) for a Europe-based multinational corporation meeting in Athens, Greece. Here's a brief synopsis of sushi factory, but really all you need to know is it was an American teaching a bunch of European executives about making sushi while at a hotel in Greece (it just doesn't get more multi-cultural than that):

"The Sushi Factory is an interactive culinary challenge that engages participants in a dynamic and enjoyable sushi making game that not only facilitates communication and networking, but also produces dinner.
The objectives of Sushi Factory include: managing the effects of quantity on quality in production, improving problem solving skills in a fluid environment, building community and fostering camaraderie among a diverse corporate team, and having fun."

I was reminded of this commonality while prepping for the SF in the kitchen of the hotel where the program was to take place. One of the fun parts of being a traveling chef is that I’ve had the pleasure of working in kitchens all over the world, to seeing each facility's quirks and idiosyncracies but also to see how similar they all are. The kitchens look the same, a lot of shiny stainless steel where every inch is occupied with equipment or storage. The kitchen crew look like your standard American chefs: young people with tattoos, a little scruff and a sound curiosity over who the hell I was and what was I doing in their kitchen. The music of choice while I was there was Greenday, just what we would listen to in US kitchens (albeit back in 1999). Even the executive chef fit the role, with a thick beard and deep circles under his eyes, it reminded me of my days running kitchens while propped-up on caffeine and testosterone. The chef and his crew were a great help to me, they even went so far as to offer to make my sushi rice for me. Possibly the hardest task in all of sushi making, I'll admit I was hesitant to pass on this responsibility to one of their kitchen brigade. However, not wanting to insult my European hosts I ultimately relented. (How was I to know that Greeks liked their sushi rice super soft?) All in all it was a great day in the kitchen, I'm hoping that my next culinary wandering will find me delivering my burrito kiosk program in Bangkok for a bunch of South Africans. Eat your heart out Benetton!

Here's my recipe for sushi rice. I don't recommend cooking it a la Grecque.

Sushi Rice

Quantity Produced: Makes 10 Cups

Medium Grain Rice (Calrose/Nishiki) 4 Cups
Cold Water As Needed (a little more than four cups)
Rice Vinegar ¾ Cup
Sugar 3 Tablespoons
Salt 1 ½ Teaspoons

Or

Sushi Vinegar ¾ Cup

Preparation Procedure-
Rinse rise 3-4 times with cold water, until water runs clear. Let stand 15 to 20 minutes. Place in rice cooker or large pot (rice cooker recommended) and cover with water up to first knuckle on index finger (about 4 1/4 Cups). If using pot cover and bring to a boil. Lower heat to medium-low and cook 5 minutes, then turn to very-low and cook for 10 minutes. Remove from heat and let stand 5 minutes. If using rice cooking simply press button and follow manufacturers instructions.

While rice is cooking, bring seasoning mixture to simmer in small sauce pan. Do not let boil. Let cool to room temperature. In a large cypress bowl or sheet pan spread out rice using a wooden spoon. Fan rice with a paper and gradually add cooled seasoning mixture while stirring in a figure “8”. Add liquid gradually until previous amount is absorbed. Rice should be glossy or shiny. Fan until no longer steaming then cover with a damp cloth and let rest for 30 minutes. Should be shiny not mushy.

"Trust me..."

2008-11-12T09:38:00.000-08:00

Perhaps it's because they look like large raisins, or they remind certain people of the prunes their Aunt Mildred would make, but dates are often a hard sell to many of my customers. Specifically one of my most popular hors d'oeuvres, Warm Medjool Dates stuffed with Marcona Almonds, Goat Cheese & Pickled Cherry Peppers, often gives people pause when perusing a draft menu. "I'm not big on dried fruit" or "are the peppers spicy?" are subtlese for "can I please have another option?". And I understand the aversion, as there are a lot of dry, mealy dates out there. However I went through the same issue several years ago in getting people to try fresh beets, so I often find myself saying "trust me, you'll love the dates". Especially if you use plump, moist medjool dates, not the nasty Turkish dates, and counter their rich sweetness with something creamy, spicy or smoky, usually soft cheese, piquante peppers or bacon (or all three!), I promise you'll be pleased with the results. And as they're a great bite sized appetizer that requires minimal prep time, dates are a perfect canape for the holidays when rich and filling food is the norm. So when the picky eaters in your family tell you at Thanksgiving how much they like your new hors d'oeuvre, thank them and tell them you can't wait for them to try your new beet salad!

Warm Medjool Dates with Goat Cheese, Marcona Almonds & Pickled Cherry Peppers
Hors d’Oeuvres for 10

Medjool Dates, Pitted/Halved 10-15
Brandy ½ Cup
Goat Cheese, Softened 8oz.
Whole Almonds, Marcona 10-15ea.
Pappadew Peppers, Quartered 6-8
Bread Crumbs, Preferably Homemade 1 Cup

Preparation Procedure-

Preheat oven 350d.. Soak pitted/halved dates in brandy 15 min. or so. Remove from liquid and stuff with almond and goat cheese. Top with piece of pappadew pepper and bread crumbs. Place on lined sheet pan and bake 10-15 min. or until toasted. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Grand Meal in the Grand Duchy

2008-10-08T08:34:00.001-07:00

Ever since I made my first trip to Luxembourg, late last year to deliver an interactive culinary event aimed at employee development (ie. corporate team building program), I swore that if I had the chance to return I would spend more than the 20-hours I spent in country on my inaugural trip. A picturesque country, seemingly equal parts France and Germany, I had been intrigued by its claim to have more Michelin starred restaurants than cities (an impressive 13 stars by my tally). So almost the first thing I did after agreeing to facilitate another event in Luxembourg was make lunch reservations at the Michelin two-star Restaurant Mosconi (what better way to prepare for 18+hours of travel than a degustation menu?). Luxembourg city is a mid-sized metropolitan area of peaks and valleys, quite literally, as half the city is on the top of a deep vertical cliff, with much of the rest on the valley floor below. One of the venues that fill the valley, sitting along the very mellow Alzette river in the old brewery district, is the Restaurant Mosconi. A Relais&Chateau location that despite its prestigious recognition and slightly pretentious appointments (an elevator to take you up to the second floor while the Maitre de takes the stairs?), manages to be particularly friendly and approachable. This is not to say that Mosconi is not formal, after all it's the best restaurant in the banking capital of Europe (I intially thought they required gentlemen diners to wear coat, tie AND cufflinks). However, the food was anything but fussy. Nouvelle Italian through and through, I didn't have much luck finding an authentic Luxembourgeois restaurant (the locals I spoke with mentioned something about French food with larger portions and sausage added?). Mosconi ended up being one of those experiences perfectly suited for the time and place. After days of rushing to airports, meetings and events, it was really nice to settle into a very comfortable chair, on a especially rainy day and let the chef make what he would (a ten-course degustation menu as it happened). Particularly memorable courses included: Shooter of Cauliflower Soup with Black Olive, Grilled Squid Salad with Shaved Fennel and Preserved Lemon, Homemade Rigatoni with Lobster and San Marzano Tomatoes, Cinnamon Ice Cream with Shaved Parmesan & Aged Balsamic and Italian Cheeses (they had over 40 on a large cart to choose from!!!). The ice cream with aged balsamic and parmesan was especially memorable. When it was all said and done my lunch ran slightly over three hours, the perfect amount of time to eaves-drop on Luxembourgeois bankers, admire their cufflinks and appreciate my extra few hours in this charming country.

If you have some really good balsamic vinegar you've been dying to open, try it with a few shavings of Reggiano Parmesan over some homemade cinnamon ice cream. It's delicious and a little bizarre!

Cinnamon Ice Cream

Quantity Produced: Makes 4 Cups

Sugar 1 ¼ Cups
Milk 2 ½ Cups
Vanilla Bean, Scraped 1
Egg Yolks 6
Cinnamon Sticks, Broken 12”
Heavy Cream 1 ¼ Cups

Preparation Procedure-

In a medium saucepan bring milk, split vanilla bean, broken cinnamon and half the sugar to a simmer. Remove from heat and let steep for 15 minutes. Meanwhile, cream remaining sugar and egg yolks. Bring milk back to a boil again and use milk mixture to temper eggs. Add remaining milk mixture, whisking steadily, and cook over a double-boiler until thick enough to coat back of a spoon (10 to 20 minutes). Cool custard in ice bath or in refrigerator over night. Add cream and freeze in ice cream machine.

Hotel Crillon le Brave-Provence

2008-10-08T07:54:00.001-07:00

As our wonderful time in Languedoc-Roussillon concluded, and the high-impact combination of too much unpasteurized cheese and local rose wine, my wife and I arranged to spend several days in the small hill town of Crillon le Brave in Northern Provence. Our specific destination was the Hotel Crillon le Brave, a Relais&Chateaux property located at the perch of the village. The location was reminiscent of a Provencal movie-set: small stone church chiming from time to time, vineyards and olive groves everywhere, intense sunshine; a completely sublime setting. HCLB is a small hotel, only 20 or so rooms, spread out over a good portion of the village. And like many small French hill towns it is completely interconnected by stone, like wall to wall shag carpeting in the '70's, everything was awash in old stone. It was a perfectly charming location.

The outer facade of the hotel looks like most any of the old buildings in town, but after you enter the inner realm a whole other world presents itself. Connected by a number of small stone pathways are a variety of gardens, small cafe tables, bocce courts, private terraces and an intentionally green swimming pool ending at the large dining patio overlooking the valley and Mont Ventoux. If the hotels brilliance had ended with the ambiance, we would have been very happy indeed. However, the most pleasant surprise may have been how outstanding the food was (so good we ate at the restaurant on consecutive nights, something I never do when traveling). The chef, Philippe Monti, has put together an impressively simple Mediterranean menu, drawing from numerous local artisans, with a wide selection of sides to accompany the creative main courses (think of the market driven simplicity of Craft restaurant in NYC, in a much more relaxed atmosphere). To complete the dining experience there's the succinct, but comprehensive wine list made up of mostly local wines (Chat. du Pape is only 20 km away) and exquisite French cheeses (I realize my visit to HCLB was ostensibly designed to ween me off the cheeses, but I just can't resist those unpasteurized fresh milk selections). We ended up being so taken with our little hotel that we rushed through our day trips to Avignon and Isle-sur-la-sorgue just so we could get back and relax at the hotel. So for your next whirlwind trip around the South of France, I highly recommend ending your travels with a few days at this establishment: www.crillonlebrave.com . Just don't expect to give up the wine and cheese until you return from your trip.

Some of my favorite menu items are the sides designed to accompany your entrees. Here's a great eggplant dish that works wonderfully with grilled meat, seafood or bread.

Warm Eggplant-Mustard Seed Relish

Quantity Produced: Makes 2 cups

Eggplant, Peeled/Diced 1#
Onion, Diced 1 Small
Garlic, Minced 1 Medium Clove
Olive Oil as needed
Cider Vinegar, Organic ½ Cup
Honey 2 Tablespoons
Sugar 1 Tablespoon
Mustard Seed, Brown & Yellow 3 Tablespoons
Cumin, Ground 1 Teaspoon
Italian Parsley, Minced 2 Tablespoons
Kosher Salt & Fresh Pepper To Taste

Preparation Procedure-

In a medium skilled sweat onion and garlic over medium-low heat, 5-10 minutes. Add eggplant and raise heat to medium high, stirring occasionally to ensure mixture browns but doesn’t burn. When eggplant is brown add cider vinegar, reduce for 3-4 minutes, add sugar, honey, mustard seed and cumin. Cook until eggplant is glazed, toss with parsley and season. Serve warm with chicken, salmon or as a dip for pita chips.

Au Revoir 'Le Midi'

2008-09-11T12:43:00.000-07:00

Having just returned from a several week 'les vacances' in Languedoc-Roussillon, France, I'm so far behind with work that of course the only thing I can do is reflect on the trip. Unlike my recent trips to the other side of 'the little pond' this jaunt was mainly for pleasure and relaxation (although I did manage to scout some great cooking facilities and locales for culinary excursions). Home base for the majority of our stay was the picturesque hill town of Le Puech, just outside the Lodeve in central Languedoc. Situated in a small stone house, with majestic views of the nearby hills and vineyards, we had a great pad for preparing the delicious offerings of the many local farmer's markets. (if you wonder how many farmer's markets we visited consider this quote from my seven-year-old nephew: "we have to go to the market AGAIN! We just went yesterday!). As our stay coincided with the peak of the local harvest, whether it be wine, tomatoes, squash, you name it, there was a lot to pick from. And trying to stay authentic to the 'terroir' of the goodies, I typically prepared dishes native to the South of France. Things like: Roast Lamb with Baby Potatoes & Rosemary, Steamed Mussels in Pic St-Loup & Leeks, Entrecote de Boeuf with Onions & Crusty Bread, and of course Ratatouille. Maybe it was the setting, like limes always tasting better in the Caribbean, but the Ratatouille tasted amazing when I made it in France. It could have been the squash, tomatoes and eggplant that had never seen the inside of a refrigerator coupled with the local fruity olive oil and juicy garlic that made my ratatouille so memorable. Or perhaps it was all the local rose wine we were enjoying that skewered our senses. On a romantic note, could it have been the pleasure of relaxing and spending time with loved ones in a wonderful setting that explains my delicious memories. My guess is like a good ratatouille, where all the ingredients gradually meld into one delicious mix, it was a combination of all the above.

As the fall is quickly approaching, meaning more autumn squash and fewer tomatoes, I'm sharing my recipe for the Northern Italian version of ratatouille: Tiello. Enjoy!

Autumn Vegetable Tiello

Quantity Produced: Serves 6-8 as Side

Olive Oil, EV 6 Tablespoons
Butternut Squash, Cut in 1 ½” Chunks 1 Medium Squash
Red Pepper, Cut in 1 ½ “ Chunks 1 Medium
Carrot, Peeled/Cut in 1 ½” Chunks 3 Carrots
Onion, Peeled/Cut in 1 ½” Chunks 1 Medium
Celery, Peeled/Cut in 1 ½’ Chunks 2 Stalks
Honey 3 Tablespoons
Lemon Juice, Fresh 3 Tablespoons
Kosher Salt To Taste
Fresh Black Pepper To Taste

Italian Plum Tomatoes 1/ 12oz. Can
Red Wine Vinegar 3 Tablespoons
Honey or Sugar 2 Tablespoons
Oregano, Dried 2 Teaspoons

Preparation Procedure-

Preheat oven to 450d.. Using 2 tablespoons of the oil, grease a roasting pan just large enough to hold vegetables comfortably. Toss vegetables with remaining oil, lemon juice, salt & pepper. Drizzle with honey. Roast vegetables, stirring occasionally, until tender 15 minutes. Remove from oven and allow to cool. While the vegetables are cooking, in a small heavy-bottomed sauce pan combine tomatoes, vinegar, honey/sugar and oregano. Cook over medium high heat until thick and tomatoes have broken up 15 minutes. Season to taste and pour over the roasted vegetables. Roast in oven for additional 15 to 20 minutes or until glazed and soft.

Dispatches from New York City

2008-08-04T08:09:00.000-07:00

I'm always excited when I have an event in NYC, because I always make time for several of the city's amazing restaurants. Delivering my increasingly popular wine tasting challenge: In Vino Veritas as a team building event for a corporate conference brought me to the big apple this time. So I made it a point to squeeze in an extra day of exciting dining, here are my impressions.

The Spotted Pig-
It seems you can't visit Omaha without finding that the city has new "gastropubs" popping up left and right. The descriptor has taken on the tired familiarity that "pan asian" claimed on so many restaurants a decade ago. So being a little suspicious and also a huge fan of the genuine article, see London post, I really appreciated how good The Spotted Pig (TSP) is. Located on a hopping corner in Greenwich Village, TSP accomplishes the two main objectives of a kick-ass gastropub: great food and no pretension. I ate there after my team building program, let's say it was 1 am, so my memory is a little blurry, but I remember they had great oysters, shucked by the cook behing the upstairs bar, outstanding "snacks" like chicken liver toasts and stuffed dates, as well as creative appetizers and a killer burger. One caveat, it is a tiny place so be prepared to wait. 314 W. 11th St. @ Greenwich St., (212 620-0393

Eleven Madison Park-
I make it a point to visit one of Danny Meyer's restaurants virtually every time I'm in New York. It's not that I'm trying to support a St. Louis native, but rather that I've never had a bad experience at one of his restaurants (and I've tried them all: Union Square Cafe, Gramercy Tavern, Table , The Modern, Blue Smoke, Shake Shack and Eleven Madison Park). This time I decided to visit Eleven Madison Park again (EMP); as I hadn't been since they brought in their new chef: Daniel Humm. Every serious food person should know that if you want a great bargain visit an acclaimed restaurant for lunch. And lunch at EMP is no exception. A five-course tasting menu for $55? You'd be lucky to get one course for the same price at dinner. And believe me, you want to get as many of Chef Humm's courses as possible. As seasonal and local as ever, it seems EMP has taken on a refinement that befits its stunning dining room (see Frank Bruni's comments on it in last month's New York Times). If you don't have any serious afternoon commitments, the lunch tasting menu paired with wines is a great way to go as the outstanding wine list has the girth of an Ayn Rand novel. 11 Madison Avenue, (212) 889-0905

Momofuku-
I've always been drawn to restaurants with attitude, the kind of place that tells the diner "this is how it's gonna be!", because that is how it should be done or simply because that's how the owner wants to do it. David Chang's Momofuku restaurants have serious attitude. I ate in his Momofuku SSam (there's also Momofuku Noodle and tasting menu only Ko) and loved it. It is the most eclectic restaurant I've been to this year (or perhaps ever). They do stuff like offer a wine list with several $1000 bottles at a restaurant that has communal tables with paper napkins and chopsticks collected in a glass in the center of the table. The restaurant serves only Dr. Pepper for soda pop (why would anyone drink soda at dinner anyway) and has one of the most unique menus I've seen in a long time. There is the pig lover's disclaimer "we do not serve vegetarian friendly cuisine", and their signature dish is a communal Pork Butt with Kim Chee & Oysters for $220.00 (on a menu where most of the stuff is less than $20). Of course it would be hard to pull off this culinary eccentricity if the food weren't damn good; and it is. Try the banh sandwiches, steamed buns with pork belly and any of the artisanal country hams. 207 2nd Ave., No Phone Number

A Voce-
Andrew Carmellini, the former chef at Cafe Boulud, has opened this wildly popular Italian restaurant near Madison Square Park. I only had a snack at one of their al fresco tables, grilled bread with hand-dipped ricotta and olive oil, but when something that simple can be that unforgettable I can't imagine how tasty the rest of the menu must be. 41 Madison Ave. (at 26th St.), (212) 845-8555

Chickalicious-
One of the original "dessert bars" specializing in the all important final course, Chickalicious is a fun place to go just to check-out the scene. Very small, you sit at the bar or one of two tables, in order to get in you almost always have to queue outside looking through the large front window as if you were witnessing a delicious Edward Hopper scene. The owner Chick, a diminutive Korean woman, Knocks out three-course dessert tasting menus that can be paired with a glass of wine until 12am nightly. If on a given night the line outside is too much for you, try the Chickalicious shop across the street that sells sweets to go. 203 E. 10th Street, No Reservations

That about does it for my culinary wandering this time, not bad for a 24-hour span, but I've got a big trip to Europe coming up in a few weeks and there will be much to share from that excursion I'm sure.

I'm So Blue.

2008-08-04T07:49:00.000-07:00

As I wrap-up my final week here in Saugatuck, Michigan I think my skin is starting to take on a Oompa-Loompaish blue hue from all the blueberries I've been eating. It's hard not to binge on these amazingly plump and tasty blueberries that cost as much for 5# as a half-pint of small, sickly blueberries cost in the city. As usual, during their fleeting season I've been making everything I can think of with them: pies, tartlets with pastry creme, clafoutis, turnovers, cobblers, chutneys, juices, gastriques, vinegar, soap...(just kidding on the last one). Here is one of my favorite light cake or muffin recipes, courtesy of the kitchens at Gramercy Tavern in New York. They work equally well at breakfast, during afternoon tea or as a dessert.

Blueberry Cornmeal Cakes

Quantity Produced: Makes 12 Cakes

Butter 1 Cup
Powdered Sugar 2 2/3 Cups
Almond Flour 1 Cup
Cake Flour ½ Cup + 1 Tablespoon
Coarse Cornmeal ¼ Cup
Egg Whites 1 Cup (about 8)
Grated Orange Zest ½ Orange
Blueberries 1 Cup

Preparation Procedure-

Preheat oven to 400˚. In a large skillet over medium heat, melt the butter. Continue to let the butter cook until it browns. Strain the browned butter through a fine sieve into a clean bowl, discard the solids.
Sift together the confectioners sugar, almond flour, cake flour, and cornmeal. Place the sifted ingredients in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the whisk attachment. On the lowest speed, add the egg whites and zest; mix until all the dry ingredients are moistened. Increase the speed to medium-low and stir in the browned butter. Increase the speed to medium and beat until smooth. Remove the bowl from the mixer and fold in the blueberries. (The batter can be made up to 3 days ahead). Butter and flour 12 muffin tins or 2-inch mint tartlet pans. Spoon the batter into the tins and bake for 18-20 minutes or until golden.

Don't Eat the Paper

2008-06-17T22:41:00.000-07:00

Here's one of my favorite warm weather fish preparations. The parchment acts as a convection oven and the halibut's natural juices make for a delicious and healthy sauce. Try it with all types of fish, as well as chicken or turkey.

Halibut en Papillote with Melted Fennel & Oven-Dried Tomato

Quantity Produced: Serves 6 As An Entree

Ingredients: Qty.\Weight
Halibut, Preferably Alaskan 6/ 6oz.

Ripe Tomato, Cut in ¼ 12 or sub favorite dried tomato
Extra Virgin Olive Oil 2 Tablespoons
Sea Salt and Fresh Ground Pepper to taste

Fennel, Julienned 1 Bulb
Leek, Julienned (White & Pale Green Parts) 1 Leek
Celery, Julienned 1 Stalk
Extra Virgin Olive Oil 2 Tablespoon
White Wine or Dry Vermouth 3 Tablespoons
Kosher Salt and Fresh Ground Pepper to taste

Basil, Julienned (or Favorite Pesto) ¼ Cup
Extra Virgin Olive Oil, Good Quality as needed
Fleur de Sel 2 Pinches

Preparation Procedure: Preheat oven to 325˚. On a parchment lined sheet pan, brush quartered tomatoes with olive oil, sprinkle with sea salt and fresh black pepper (if tomatoes are unripe sprinkle with a pinch of sugar). Bake until slightly dried 3 to 4 hours.
Turn oven to 400˚. Heat olive oil in a medium skillet. Add the julienned fennel, leek and celery heat over moderate heat until it starts to caramelize, 10-15 minutes, stirring occasionally to keep from scorching. When there’s color, add white wine or vermouth, raise heat and cook until reduced. Remove to a bowl with a slotted spoon, season to taste with salt and fresh pepper.
Cut 6 sheets of parchment papers into 12-inch circles. Season the halibut fillets with a pinch of salt. Take a sheet of parchment and fold it in half to create a crease. Place some of the fennel mixture on one side of the fold. Place a fillet on the julienned fennel. To seal up the packet, fold the other half of the parchment over the top to the edges meet. Start at the left and crimp the paper in ½ “ intervals. The finished packet will look like a large empanada. Transfer to baking sheet when finished. Brush the finished packets with olive oil and bake for 12 to 17 minutes (the packets will begin to brown and puff with air). To serve, cut each packet with a sharp knife or scissors. Top with basil or pesto, fresh grape tomatoes, a drizzle of good olive oil and sea salt.

The Young Prodigy

2008-05-20T06:26:00.000-07:00

When you spend a lot of your time preparing elaborate menus made from impeccably sourced ingredients and paired with carefully selected wines, like I do, you can sometimes forget how elemental food and cooking are. I was reminded of this fact recently when I gave a private cooking lesson. My student had requested, among other things, to learn how to make Bananas Foster, the classic New Orlean's recipe of bananas flamed in rum. This, by itself, is not unique. No, the funny part is that it will be over a decade before my pupil can go out and get the ingredients for the recipe himself. You see, this student's name is Harry and he is ten-years-old.

Let me start by saying Harry is already a darn good cook. I could plug him in with a group of executives doing some culinary team building and he'd probably be showing them how to saute and chop. And, from the stories he tells, Harry has already had some great food experiences. He's eaten kangaroo jerky in Australia, learned how to make pizza in Italy and has already visited our country's most prestigious cooking school, The Culinary Institute of America. Yet while Harry is well on his way to becoming a fabulous cook, he still looks at food and cooking like the kid that he is. He really enjoyes the basic things, the stuff that someone who has spent years cooking, like me, has long taken for granted. Things like: Parmesan is not only delicious, it's fun to grate; bananas ARE sometimes tricky to peel and it's really satisfying to dice the celery stalks all the same size. The stuff that most people first loved about cooking.

So while I may have shown him how to make homemade ice cream and bread, how to thicken a chowder and flame some bananas; for the almost three-hours of our cooking lesson Harry reminded me of the simple pleasures of cooking. And that was by far the best recipe of the day.

Harry is really into baking, so here's my recipe for Fresh Pineapple Upside-Down Cake.

Butter, Room Temp. 7 Tablespoons
Flour 1 ½ Cups
Baking Soda ¼ Teaspoon
Baking Powder ½ Teaspoon
Salt ¼ Teaspoon
Light Brown Sugar ¾ Cup
Vanilla Bean, Split/Scraped 1
Pineapple, cut 1/8” Slices 8 Slices
Rum 2 Tablespoons
Sugar 1 Cup
Eggs 2 Large
Milk ¾ Cup

Preparation Procedure-

Preheat oven to 350˚. Butter an 8 or 9-inch nonstick cake pan. Sift the flour, baking soda, baking powder, and salt into a bowl. Set aside.

In a medium pan, combine brown sugar, and the vanilla bean and seeds with 1 cup of water. Bring to a simmer. Add the pineapple and poach for 5 minutes. Remove the pineapple, raise the heat to high, and reduce the liquid to ¼ cup, about 10 minutes. Stir in rum, set aside.

In mixing bowl, combine 6 Tablespoons butter with sugar. With the paddle attachment, on medium speed, cream the butter and sugar until fluffy. Add the eggs one at a time and incorporate completely. Lower the speed and add sifted ingredients. Mix on low for 10 seconds. Add milk, mix until smooth.

Arrange the pineapple slices in an over lapping manner at bottom of cake pan and brush most of the flavored syrup over them. Pour the batter over the slices and bake for 30 minutes (rotating after 15 minutes). Let cool 2 minutes before inverting. Spoon remaining glaze over top.

Serves 6-8.

Fungi Feast

2008-05-12T10:09:00.000-07:00

While the majority of the dinner parties we do at Kirk's Traveling Kitchen tend to be the standard four or five course affairs; elaborate, mini-coursed tasting menus are becoming more and more popular. While easily among our favorite events to do, these dinners, which can be anywhere from 10 to 15 courses, paired with wine, over four-plus hours, are not for the faint-of-stomach. However if you are a dedicated food person, and believe in the role dinner can play as entertainment (beyond pleasurable sustanence), it might be an experience for you!

To give you an idea what one of these meals entails, I've listed the menu from a dinner I did this weekend. The host suggested the theme "Mushrooms" and wanted to pair the individual courses with wines from his exceptional cellar. Like many of the tasting menus that we do, my team and I may have had as much fun preparing and serving the food as the guests had eating it!

"Fungi Feast" Mushroom Tasting Menu from May 10,2008

1st Course: Crab "Rangoon" stuffed Morel Mushroom Tempura with Fresh Wasabi Ponzu

2nd Course: Danko Shiitake Mushroom Spring Rolls with Mint & Peanut Sauce

3rd Course: Bison Carpaccio with Shaved Raw Portobellos, Sea Beans & Truffle Salt

4th Course: Hen of the Woods Mushroom "Cappuccino" with Celery Root Foam

5th Course: Pecorino Custard Ravioli with Trumpet Royale Mushrooms & Madeira Essence

6th Course: Poached Wild Scottish Salmon with St. Georges Mushroom Terrine & Pumpkin Seed Sabayon

7th Course: Pomegranite Glazed Guinea Hen with Farrotto, Cavolo Nero & Porcini Picada

8th Course: Roasted Beef Loin with Fingerling Potato Galette & Wild Mushroom Confit

9th Course: Chabichou du Poitou (Goat Cheese) with Celery Hearts & Zante Currants

10th Course: Blueberry Tartlets with Neufchatel Pastry Creme, Graham Cracker Crust & Candy Cap Mushroom Streusel

11th Course: Individual Devil's Food Cakes with Domori Chocolate Buttercream (Birthday Surprise!)

12th Course: Dark Chocolate & Tuile Cookie "Fungi"

Small Plates; Not so Small Flavors

2008-04-16T07:47:00.000-07:00

If my customers are any guide, America's fascination with all things served on small plates, in even smaller bites, doesn't seem to be waning any time soon. Many associate this small bites craze to the Spanish tapas menu, but, in my opinion, the best small plates dishes are much more multi-ethnic. Drawing from Southeast Asian street food, Chinese dim sum, Middle Eastern tea menus, as well as more traditional Mediterranean meze; the possibilities for cooking a varied feast of mini-meals is endless.

One of my more popular offerings, small plate events serve many purposes: they are inherently social in that you and your guests aren't fixed at a place setting for a multi-coursed meal, they allow everyone to sample multiple culinary creations (my small plate menus start at seven different options), and they are inherently casual, seemingly a party essential these days.

To get you started on your small plate odyssey, here's a great Southeast Asian-inspired summertime "shooter" made from ripe cantalope.

Kaffir Lime-Melon "Shooter" with Sesame Wafers

Cantaloupe, Peeled/Seeded/Diced 1 medium
Fresh Lime Juice 4 limes

Simple Syrup, (1/2 water/1/2 sugar) 1 1/2 cups
Kaffir Lime Leaves (fresh or frozen) 2
Coriander Seeds (cracked) 15
Green Cardamom pods (cracked) 5

Coconut Milk 1 cup
Heavy Cream 1/2 cup

Spring roll wrappers 4 sheets
Eggs, beaten 1
Oyster sauce, Hoisin sauce or soy sauce 1 Tablespoon
Sesame Seeds (Black and White) as needed

Preparation Procedure: Preheat oven to 325˚.

Bring simple syrup, lime leaves, coriander and cardamom to boil. Remove from stove and allow to steep 30 minutes to one hour. Strain and chill.

Meanwhile beat heavy cream in mixer until peaks start to form, fold in coconut milk and mix until thick. Refrigerate.

When syrup is cold pour over melon and lime juice in blender and blend until smooth. Refrigerate.

Brush springroll wrappers (cut in an appealing shape) with egg wash mixed with oyster sauce or hoisin or soy. Sprinkle with sesame while still wet.
Lay out on silpat or parchment lined sheet pan, cover with sheet of parchment or another silpat. Bake 10-15 minutes until brown.

Fill shot glass 2/3 full of melon soup, top with dollup of cold coconut chantilly and garnish with sesame wafer.

Olives Vertes Avec Kirk

2008-04-03T11:52:00.000-07:00

As is usually the case when I find myself in Chicago, I managed to fit in time for a quick snack at one of my favorite restaurants in the Windy City: avec. A tiny, Mediterranean small-plates inspired restaurant off Randolph (owned by the same fellas who own the seminal 'Blackbird'), avec is the type of restaurant I love: creative but not outlandish with a format that allows you to try a lot of different foods and wines. It's easy to craft a diverse meal out of 6 to 10 different small things and try a few obscure, yet affordable, French, Italian, Spanish or Portugese wines. As I look forward to a couple trips to Europe over the next few months, nothing gets my palate in the mood better than this place. Here's my recipe for delicious marinated green olives, similar to the delicious olives I always get at avec, just remember to serve them at room-temperature, or even a little warm.

Marinated Green Olives

Makes 4 Cups

4 Cups Green Olives (Manzanilla, Lucques or Picholine) cracked with a knife
1/4 Cup Extra Virgin Olive Oil
3 Strips Lemon Peel, with Pith Removed
3 Cloves Garlic, Smashed
1 Bay Leaf
1 Fresh Thyme Sprig

Preparation Procedure-

Make sure the olives are cracked so that the marinade permeates to the core. Combine and marinate for several hours at room temperature. Keep refrigerated but always allow to come to room temperature before serving.

The End is in Sight

2008-03-12T09:01:00.000-07:00

As the winter SLOWLY dissipates, I'm taking a moment to reflect on cold weather dishes that I will surely be missing in just a few months. So while ripe tomatoes, pole beans and sweet corn certainly sound good right now, it won't be long before the "grass is greener" foodie in me will reflect on how great those braised short ribs, blood oranges and sunchokes were on cold winter Sundays. Here is a recipe I developed for those cold days when I really craved a salad, but needed something warm and smooth (sunchoke puree) to make it perfect and seasonal.

Winter Scallop and Frisee Salad with Warm Sherry Vinaigrette

Quantity Produced: Serves 8 (salad or appetizer portions)

20/30ct. Dry Scallops, Cleaned 16-24
Olive Oil as needed
Kosher Salt as needed

Chicken Stock, Preferably Homemade 4 Cups
Extra Virgin Olive Oil 2 Tablespoons
Sunchokes, Scrubbed or Peeled/Chopped 2-3 Cups
Kosher Salt & Fresh WHITE Pepper To Taste

Young Frisee, Endive or Arugula, washed 4 Cups
Extra Virgin Olive Oil 2 Tablespoons
Fresh Lemon Juice Few Drops
Truffle Oil (optional) 1 Tablespoon
Sea Salt To Taste

Sherry Vinegar ¼ Cup
Balsamic Vinegar 2 Tablespoons
Garlic, Minced 2 Cloves
Shallot, Minced 1 Medium
Extra Virgin Olive Oil ½ Cup

Preparation Procedure- Make vinaigrette, mixing all ingredients thoroughly, set aside.
Combine chicken stock, olive oil and sunchokes in a small sauce pan. Bring to a simmer and cook until sunchokes are tender, about 20 minutes. Using a stick blender or food processor puree until smooth. Season to taste and keep warm. In a large, heavy bottomed skillet heat olive oil over medium high heat and cook scallops until golden on one side only. Turn scallops over and turn off heat. Meanwhile toss lettuce with olive oil, lemon juice, truffle oil and sea salt. Plate a ¼ cup of sunchoke puree on warm plates, top with 2-3 scallops, and a small amount of lettuce. Swirl sherry vinaigrette into skillet used to cook the scallops, scraping to get all the scallop “goodness”. Spoon around the plate. Serve immediately.

Recipe of the Day..For One Day.

2008-02-12T10:52:00.000-08:00

As appealing as the idea of posting a fresh recipe here everyday, based on my whims, travels and tastes, it seems unrealistic given how hard it has been to find the time to write something on a weekly basis. Let alone a daily one. So in the spirit of the 30 minutes of free time I currently have, I've decided to post a 'Recipe of the Day' for today only. And as it is REALLY cold here right now, I've decided to share one of my favorite chowders as it is the perfect cure for those winter chills. This Indian inspired soup provides the hearty sustanence of a typical chowder with some refreshing qualities courtesy of lemongrass and cilantro.

Shrimp Kasakasa Chowder (Kasakasa means poppy seed in Tamil)

Quantity Produced: Serves 6-8

Olive Oil as needed
Ginger, Peeled/Minced 2 Tablespoons
Garlic, Minced 2 Tablespoons
Shallots, Minced 2 Medium
Poppyseeds, Toasted 1 Teaspoon
Cloves, Ground ½ Teaspoon
Cinnamon, Ground ½ Teaspoon
Turmeric, Ground ½ Teaspoon
Coriander, Ground ½ Teaspoon
Lemongrass, 1/ 3” Stalk, Outer stalks peeled away (Sachet)
Garlic Chive, Cut into 3” Pieces 2 (Sachet)
Rock Shrimp or Diced Shrimp 1 ½ #
Russet Potato, Peeled/Diced 1 Medium
Coconut Milk, Unsweetened 2/ 14oz. Cans
Heavy Cream 4 Cups
Cilantro, Chopped ½ Cup
Kosher Salt & Fresh Black Pepper To Taste

Preparation Procedure-

In a large stock pot sauté shallot for 3 to 4 minutes or until it starts to color. Add ginger, poppyseeds, spices and lemongrass sachet. Cook 4 to 5 minutes. Add potato, them shrimp, and cook for 10 minutes. When potato al dente, add coconut milk and simmer for 10 minutes longer. Add cream and bring to a boil, reducing chowder a little. Reduce heat and cook until chowder like, about 15 to 20 minutes. Season to taste and stir-in cilantro.

What's Your Favorite?

2008-01-29T07:06:00.000-08:00

The two most common questions asked of me during culinary events are: what are your favorite restaurants and when you cook at home what do you make? I've likened the first question to the query I always received while studying film: what's your favorite film? I can't answer either question with just one restaurant/film, maybe I could with ten, but definitely not one. However, the answer to the question about what I make at home when I cook is simple: Judy Roger's Chicken & Bread Salad from Zuni Cafe. People find it funny that the meal I most cook for my family isn't even my own recipe, but rather the signature dish of one of my favorite restaurants in San Francisco (one off the "favorite restaurant" list). Created by Judy Rogers, a native of St. Louis who I've had the privilige of cooking for on several occasions, the Chicken & Bread Salad is quintessential comfort food for my tastes. A one roasting pan meal of perfect roast chicken, crunchy and chewy toasted bread, slightly wilted salad greens and a dressing made from the chicken's natural juices. It's the perfect simple Sunday meal in my book, or to paraphrase a line from a favorite film, it "smells like victory."

Zuni Cafe's Chicken & Bread Salad-

3# Whole, Fresh Chicken, Seasoned with Kosher Salt/Fresh Pepper & Fresh Thyme and Parsley Sprig under skin
½ Loaf (10-12oz) Crusty Bread, Slightly Stale/Crust Removed/Cut into 1” Pieces,
1/3 Cup Extra Virgin Olive Oil, Extra For the Croutons
2 Tablespoons White Wine or Champagne Vinegar
Kosher Salt and Fresh Black Pepper To Taste
1 Tablespoon Currants, Dried, Soaked in 1 Tablespoon Warm Water
1 Tablespoon Red Wine Vinegar
3 Tablespoons Pine Nuts, Toasted in Dry Skillet on the Stove over Low Heat
3 Cloves Garlic, Slivered
4 Scallions, Julienned
2 Tablespoons Chicken Stock, Preferably Homemade
6+ Cups Mesclun Salad Greens, Such as: Arugula, Frisee, Oak Leaf, Etc.
Preparation Procedure-
Preheat oven to 475˚. Rinse chicken with cold water and THOROUGHLY dry with paper towel. Put a thyme sprig under skin of each breast section. Season completely with salt and fresh black pepper. Refrigerate for 30 minutes if time allows. Arrange cubed bread on sheet pan and cook in hot oven until some color develops, about 5-10 minutes. Turn bread chunks over so browning is even. Combine ¼ cup of olive oil with white wine vinegar and salt/pepper to taste. Toss bread with half of this oil mixture and season to taste with salt and pepper. Soak currants in warm water and red wine vinegar.

Preheat a heavy bottomed skillet or roasting pan on your stove and heat until hot. Wipe and moisture from chicken and set it breast side up in hot pan. Place in center of hot oven and bake for 30 minutes. Turn the chickens onto breasts and roast another 30 minutes. Check to see if chickens are cooked, using thermometer or twisting leg sections (turn easily=done). Allow chicken to cool.

Place a little of remaining olive oil in small skillet and sweat garlic and scallions over medium-low heat. When cooked scrape onto bread and toss to combine. Place on sheet pan and bake bread until warm and golden, 10-15 minutes. Drain the dripping from the chicken into the chicken stock. Heat the roasting pan and add drippings/stock, scraping the bottom of the pan to remove tasty bits. Remove meat from cooled chicken, skin-on or off it’s up to you. Toss pan juices with crusty bread, pine nuts, drained currants, and greens. Nestle chicken into salad and add extra olive oil/white wine vinegar mixture as needed.

Time for KTK's Panacea

2008-01-15T13:20:00.000-08:00

The one constant of the parties, classes and events I've worked since the new year is not what you'd expect. The focus and menus have run the gamut, the participants as varied as the weather here in St. Louis (from corporate execs to very young pasta makers [see photo]), and I've rarely heard the words "diet" or "fast" uttered (although perhaps they've been replaced by "cleanse"). No, the constant, which shouldn't come as a huge surprise this time of year, are those nagging, sniffling colds which seem to be omnipresent right now. Now much to the dismay of our customers in the pharmaceutical industry, we here at the traveling kitchen subscribe to the age-old, cure-all for these annoying ailments: homemade chicken broth. And conventional wisdom to the contrary making this amazing cold remedy is just about as easy as running out to the pharmacy. In fact there are really only two important things to remember in making chicken broth, or any stock for that matter: start with cold water (it allows for a cleaner tasting, less "muddied" end product) and just cover the bones with water (we're going for a rich, delicious broth; not chicken water). Here is a great stock recipe, don't forget to freeze any extra broth in a ice cube tray or plastic container (3/4 full).

Chicken Broth/Stock
Makes 4 Quarts.

Chicken Bones, Rinsed with Cold Water
(should include leg and wings with meat) 6-7#
Water, Cold Just Enough to Cover Bones
Onion, Cubed 1 Large
Carrot, Peeled/Cubed 4 Medium
Celery, Cubed 4 Outer Stalks
Peppercorns, Black 10
Tomato Paste (optional) 2 Tablespoons
Kosher Salt 1/4 Cup
Fresh Thyme 2-3 Sprigs
Fresh Parsley (optional) 3-4 Sprigs

In a large stock pot, combine everything and cover with cold water, just to cover. Turn heat to high and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer for 2 1/2 hours. Strain and season to taste with salt and pepper. (Allow to cool completely to degrease or use a stale piece of bread to absorb fat residue that settles on top of broth.)

It's all about the Brittle Baby!

2007-12-03T13:52:00.000-08:00

Having taught my first cooking class of the young holiday season last week, I'm beginning to think about those seasonal sweets we all crave this time of year. Now as far as desserts go in December the cookies can be tasty, the croquembouche undeniably fancy and peppermint seasonal, but what I'm really talking about is brittle. I love brittle in all its forms: traditional salty peanut brittle, southern-style pecan toffee brittle, even nouveau cuisine "peanut butter & bacon" brittle. The simple act of applying heat to sugar can produce magical culinary results with a little patience, attention and of course..butter. I make my favorite brittle recipe with macadamia nuts because they provide a delicious creamy component to counter the caramelized sugar. Here's the recipe:

Macadamia Nut Brittle
Makes one 8X12" sheet pan of brittle

Baking Soda 1 ½ Teaspoons
Salt ¼ Teaspoon
Corn Syrup 1 Cup
Sugar 2 Cups
Macadamia Nuts, Chopped 2 Cups
Vanilla Extract 1 Teaspoon
Butter, Soft 4 oz.

Preparation Procedure-

Mix baking soda and salt, set aside. In a medium sauce pan bring corn syrup and sugar to a boil, stirring until sugar is dissolved. When candy thermometer reads 255˚ add nuts. Cook until thermometer reads 300˚ and add baking soda and salt mixture. Remove from heat and add vanilla and butter. Spread thin on sheet pan and allow to cool to room temperature before cracking.

22 Hours in the Grand Duchy of Luxembourg

2007-11-27T13:11:00.000-08:00

As my seeming tour of the "L" countries continues- last month Lithuania, last week Luxembourg- I've been forcing myself to reflect on the food culture of these locales despite being groggy from jet-lag and spending such a short amount of time there (I was in Luxembourg for a total of 22 hours). And as both of these trips coincided with my facilitating team building/networking events for corporate clients, the amount of time I had to digest the food scene was clearly going to be wanting regardless. But despite these shortcomings, when it came to my trip to Luxembourg I was still able to pick up a few food related tid-bits for loyal readers interested in the culinary goings on in the EU's smallest country.

As a barometer for the state of its food scene, Luxembourg restaurants boast more Michelin stars per square mile (or per inhabitant) than any other country: 12 stars for 10 restaurants. Unfortunately, I didn't have time to dine in any of them. However, I was able to try some of the country's fantastic wines, specifically several of their fresh, deliciously dry rieslings from the Moselle Valley (it changes to the Mosel once the river hits Germany). If you're interested in a dry riesling and tired of trying to find a dry white from Alsace, give the white wines of Luxembourg a try! As far as food goes, the potato is king in the Grand Duchy (Grand Duchy signifies a territory whose head of state is a Duke or Duchess, of which Luxembourg is the only in existence today). Of the two meals I ate there, both had small creamer or fingerling potatoes as a prominent component. It's easy to see the German influence, and why not, the capital of Luxembourg is only 15 miles from Germany and over 50% of the population commutes over the border to work in Deutchland. So despite French being the language of choice, the menus have a distinctly Bavarian look: potato dumplings, sauerkraut, sausages, etc..

However, without a doubt the highlight of my trip was the wine program I delivered at the client's corporate headquarters (who shall remain nameless). Located in an old castle in the heart of Luxembourg's capital (Luxembourg), this magnificent structure is home to one of the most impressive wine cellars I've ever set foot in. Rumor has it that the wine cave, which has a comprehensive collection of nearly every first-growth Bordeaux vintage going back to the early 20th century, was bricked-off during World War II to keep the invading Nazis from pillaging the wine. And from what I witnessed the cellar was worth going to those lengths. The breadth of the collection is what is most staggering, with multiples of several "once in a lifetime" bottles (including the '61 Petrus pictured above). Clearly the budget from which I was working did not allow for such exalted juice, but we did quite well with the wines our budget did allow: 2000 Almaviva from Chile, 1998 Chateau Peyre-Rose Syrah, Chateau Beaucastel Chateauneuf-du-Pape, and a delcious third-growth Bordeaux from Chateau Giscours in Margaux. It was a wine experience that I hope to repeat in the near future. Who knows, maybe I'll even stay for a day.

Here's a great recipe for my German-style fingerling potatoes. I take some liberties (like cardamom), but the spirit of the dish is intact.

German-Style Fingerling Potatoes
Quantity Produced: Serves 8

Fingerling Potatoes, Peeled 3#
Cold Water As Needed

Bacon, Cooked/Diced 8 Strips
Bacon Grease or Olive Oil 2 Tablespoons
Onion, Diced 1 Medium
Mustard Seed, Brown or Yellow 2 Tablespoons
Apple Cider Vinegar ½ Cup
Brown Sugar, Packed ¼ Cup
Honey ¼ Cup
Dijon Mustard 2 Tablespoons
Green Cardamom, Ground (optional) ½ Teaspoon
Pork Drippings, Stock or Water ½ Cup
Kosher Salt & Fresh Black Pepper to taste

Preparation Procedure-

In a medium stock pot cover peeled fingerling potatoes with cold water and bring to a simmer over medium-high heat. Cook without boiling until potatoes are slightly tender about 15 to 20 minutes. Remove potatoes from the heat and let stand 15 minutes. Carefully strain so as to not break any of the potatoes and allow to cool at room temperature. When cool slice in circles, 3/4 “ thick.

In the same stock pot or a large skillet heat grease or olive oil over medium-high heat. When hot add onion, bacon and mustard seeds. Cook until onion starts to brown and is tender, about 5 – 10 minutes. Deglaze pan with cider vinegar and add pork drippings, stock or water. Bring to a boil and add sugar, honey, mustard and cardamom (if using). Stir to combine and bring to a simmer, add potatoes and cook over high heat until potatoes are glazed and tender, about 5 minutes. Season to taste. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Dispatches from Vilnius, Lithuania

2007-10-29T11:18:00.000-07:00

I want to take the first several sentences of this entry to apologize to all of the loyal clients and co-workers of Kirk's Traveling Kitchen who have been inundated with the following exchange when told I'd be working outside the USA for a few days last week. When these well meaning individuals politely ask "Where are you going?" I would summarily respond "Lithuania.. Kirk's Traveling Kitchen is huge in Eastern Europe." Hopefully the intended self-deprecating sarcasm comes across in this blog, the way it should have when I first uttered it.

I've worked in a lot of great and unusual places, but none have attracted the unknowing curiosity that Vilnius, Lithuania did when I mentioned I was going to be doing some team development work there for the amazing wind power company Vestas. You say you're going to Italy people visualize that, even China has its imagery for those that have never been there, but Lithuania, not much comes to mind for most people (I first thought of potatoes when I heard I'd be going). So I'm here to provide you with some much needed imagery for this underappreciated locale; just picture an inexpensive Prague. It has the same beautiful architecture in the old town city center as Prague, as well as a stylish, cosmopolitan locals, thanks to the fastest growing economy in Eastern Europe. With a modest population of around half-a-million, it is very much a walking city with the main attractions being a majestic castle turret on top a steep hill overlooking the old town part of the city and the several bridges encrusted with pad-locks. This wedding day rite-of-passage for the predominantly Catholic population has all newly married couples fix a lock to one of several bridges crossing the Vilnia river and throw the key into the water as a symbolic commitment to spend their lives together. (Unfortunately, there are no current statistics on how Lithuanian divorce rates compare with the rest of the EU).

I didn't get to sample as much of the local culinary fare as I'd have liked. Being in Vilnius for only a couple of days, most of it spent at a conference center 30km outside the city, I was able to spend just one afternoon and evening in the city. What I did sample suggests that my image pairing of Lithuania and potatoes was not far off. Aside from liking a lot of lager style beers, with names like Kalnapilis, Svyturys and Utenos, the Lithuanian food scene is flush with fried brown bread, sausages wrapped in bread, and all variety of potato dumplings. With the rapidly improving economy, the city of Vilnius has new "ethnic" restaurants popping up all over. (By ethnic they mean: Japanese, Thai, Italian, and, of course, American BBQ). I wasn't able to locate a good contemporary Lithuanian restaurant, but I certainly got my fill of the aforementioned staples at several cafes and gastro pubs. So while I probably won't be taking a group on a culinary excursion through Lithuania anytime soon, Vilnius is a beautiful city and well worth a trip if you're in that part of the world. Tell them Kirk's Traveling Kitchen sent you, we're big over there.

Tour of Missouri: The French Never Ate So Good

2007-09-23T17:56:00.000-07:00

As an excited spectator for the inaugural Tour of Missouri cycling race, I must admit I was as preoccupied with the food that we would serve at our picnic as I was with whether George Hincapie or Alberto Contador would break to the front of the pack. However, having been a casual fan of cycling for years, which means you follow the Tour de France and that's about it, I was proud of my adoptive state for putting on a top-notch sporting exhibition on their first try. (Despite following the first few stages on the West side of the state, it was in Augusta wine country that I first caught glimpse of how major a production the Tour of Missouri was. With over 120 riders and dozens of team, race and security vehicles, I thought to myself "this is a big deal" with each support car that passed). So with family in town from around the country, I really wanted to show them that not only could Missouri stage a world class cycling spectacle but we could serve superb al fresco cuisine to match. The key to a great traveling spread, one where you won't have a kitchen or heat source to prepare, is the variety of dishes you serve. It's important to have a large and varied offering, things like: multiple pickles, good cheeses, spreads, olives, salads & relishes, breads & crostini, fruit, smoked fish and meat, sweets. Not only because it's easier to pack up smaller containers, but also in that it allows for informality when eating. Everyone can be serving themselves something while the rest is making the rounds, it's a more social way to entertain. This method is made easier by the fact that you can purchase most of the components for a meal such as this, things like olives, cheeses, pickles, etc., and then focus on making just a few of your favorites to accompany them. It's also a good idea to invest in a quality picnic basket with well made plastic plates, utensils and cups, one that has a waterproof interior so you can add an ice pack to keep things cool. Here is a delicious relish that goes great with smoked meats, especially smoked salmon or trout.

Creamy Cucumber Relish
Quantity Produced: 3 Cups

Quick Pickled Cucumbers 3 Cups (See Recipe)
Parsley, Minced 2 Tablespoons
Shallot, Minced 2 Teaspoons
Garlic, Minced ½ Teaspoon
Sour Cream 1/3 Cup
Cayenne Pepper Pinch
Fresh Dill, Minced ¼ Cup (or 1 Tablespoon Dried)
Olive Oil, Extra Virgin 2 Tablespoons
Kosher Salt To Taste
Fresh White Pepper To Taste

Preparation Procedure-

Combine everything, season and refrigerate.

Quick Pickled Cucumbers
Quantity Produced: 3 Cups

English Cucumber, Sliced on Mandoline 2
Kosher Salt 2 Tablespoons

Water 3 Cups
White Wine Vinegar 1 Cup
Sugar 2 Cups
Bay Leaves 2
Allspice Berries, Dried 4

Preparation Procedure-
Slice cucumbers thin and toss with salt. Set in colander over a large bowl and drain for 30 minutes. Meanwhile, make brine by bringing remaining ingredients to a boil in a large saucepan. Remove from heat and allow to cool to room temperature (you can put into refrigerator to speed this up). Rinse salt from cucumbers and using either a clean towel or salad spinner remove as much moisture from cucumbers as possible. Cover with cooled brine. Will be ready in 3 to 6 hours.

Dispatches from Santa Fe

2007-08-30T12:38:00.000-07:00

I recently returned from working a few events in the magical town of Santa Fe, New Mexico. It has been several years since I've spent any considerable time in the Southwest, specifically Santa Fe, and aside from the obvious: a dry heat is better in August than a humid heat, I gained a newfound respect for the culinary scene there. From old stalwarts to new juggernauts, as always, there's a lot going on food-wise in this vibrant art community. Here are a few places not to be missed the next time you visit:

Joseph's Table Actually in Taos, about an hours drive North of Santa Fe, Joseph's Table is a restaurant I've wanted to visit for years. Located in the folksy Hotel la Fonda directly on Taos Plaza, Joseph's Table is the progeny of chef Joseph Wrede who also happens to be the grand puba of the local/artisanal movement in Northern New Mexico (the restaurant's motto: "The World is Our Country, Good Food Our Religion, Organic & Wild Our Mission"). Chef Wrede prints his small menu nightly and works with most of the areas more renowned farmers and ranchers to create his delicious Southwestern inflected New American cuisine. Highlights of my meal were the Sauteed Kale & Beet Greens in Tomato Vinaigrette and Soy Marinated Duck with Saffron Onions and Juniper Sauce.

Coyote Cafe When I first visited Santa Fe in the early nineties I ate at Mark Miller's Coyote Cafe, which had just opened, and experienced his interpretation of Southwestern cuisine. Widely considered the originator of a new way of cooking tacos and chiles, think Nuevo Southwestern, Miller had a impressive track record including a stint at Chez Panisse in the very early days. Almost twenty years later while your chances of seeing Miller behind the stove probably aren't good, among many other endeavors he's teaching courses at the University of New Mexico, the restaurant is as good as ever. And the best part about the Coyote Cafe experience is you have three different options to try their food: the formal Cafe, the casual rooftop Cantina and the lunch counter Cottonwoods.

Cafe San Estevan If you're looking for something eclectic and away from the main drag, visit Cafe San Estevan at the corner of the SanBusco shopping center. Café San Estevan also has an interesting story behind it: Estevan Garcia, owner and creator of the menu, is a monk with serious passion for food and flavors. His food combinations are quite unique, and the care with which the food is prepared is always evident. You can read more about Garcia’s story on the menu as you are deciding what to eat. The environment is a memorable melange of religious artifacts (surprise, surprise), burning candles and old wood; which makes for a completely romantic atmosphere.

Santa Fe Farmer's Market As much as I enjoyed eating in Santa Fe's restaurants and street stalls, which provided much of my green chile fix, probably my favorite food experience while there had to do with the community's incredible farmer's market. Every Saturday from 7am on, over 150 vendors sell everything from roasted green chiles (of course) to wild New Mexico pine nuts and artisanal sheep's milk cheeses. And as a farmer's market aficionado, having been to them on almost every continent, I must say it is one of the more exciting ones that I've been to in the United States. Maybe it was the morning I visited, but the energy level and variety was unparalleled when compared to other domestic markets I've visited recently. Also, the extensive prepared food offerings make it a great market to visit even if you're not interested in arugula or lamb shanks.

"Do you deliver to Manhattan?"

2007-08-02T07:05:00.000-07:00

Chinn Chinn Restaurant in tiny Mattawan Michigan, just off highway 94 a few miles west of Kalamazoo, serves some of the best Northern Chinese food in the state. If you need a testament to this assessment just talk to my sister. A longtime resident of New York City, she lives within walking distance of hundreds of the countries best and most authentic Asian restaurants in Chinatown. Yet despite having tried many of them, she still claims the best Chinese food is found in this 10-table restaurant located in a strip mall next to a flower shop.

Now my sister may be biased by the fact that she was practically weened on the recipes served at Chinn Chinn, we all were. Long before chef/owner John Tsui opened his new restaurant, his parents ran Peking Palace, the original great Chinese restaurant in Southwestern Michigan, using many of the same recipes prepared at Chinn Chinn. While I was growing up my family would go to Peking Palace at least once a week with near religious consistency. In fact I typically found the experience of breaking-bread at Peking Palace (can you break steamed buns?) much more spiritual than church, but then again I'm a food person. The memories of sharing dinners of honey glazed chicken, crispy duck, or sichuan shrimp are good ones. Although my favorite Peking Palace memory would have to include the fun, and challenge, of dining with my 100-year old, legally blind, great grandmother Warner. A proper lady and the consumate host, I never saw her in anything other than a nice dress, she wouldn't dare enjoy her dinner until everyone had been served. And seeing how she would usually be dozing off by the time the food finally came, she typically self-medicated with a single glass of Warner Vineyard's Riesling, we had to feed her as soon as we arrived at the restaurant. This would require Mr. Tsui, John's father, to bring out great grandma's dinner as soon as we arrived at the restaurant. However, in order to get her to eat the food we had to convince her that we were also enjoying dinner. So everyone at the table would have to grab a teacup and smack it with a fork to mimic the sound of a massive feast. I will never forget the question she'd ask me every week while she was enjoying her dinner. She'd lean over to me as if she were going to confide a meaningful secret and say "how's yours?". I'd look down at my empty teacup and shining fork and reply "it's great grandma." To which she'd say "it is, isn't it" and continue with her meal.

Chinn Chinn Asian Restaurant
52885 N Main St
Mattawan, MI 49071
(269) 668-7667

Blueberry Fields

2007-07-30T06:46:00.000-07:00

There's nothing better for a food lover than to find themselves situated in the heart of a major agricultural area at the peak of its crop's season. I had this experience recently while spending several weeks working in Southwestern Michigan. A veritable produce section of incredible fruits, including: peaches, raspberries, black raspberries, sweet cherries, tart cherries, strawberries and blueberries, especially blueberries.

The cool, damp mornings and hot, dry afternoons in Allegan county, with its 30 miles of Lake Michigan frontage, along with the sandy soil make it the perfect environment for growing beautiful blueberries. I've known this for years, as I grew up just in the next county, and have fond memories of making weekend trips to the lake to get some sun and stock-up on the areas most popular fruit. But recently I've been able to share these amazing berries with friends and clients in St. Louis, as I've been commuting back-and-forth to Michigan all summer usually with several large boxes of blueberries in tow (or in the carry-on). For people who've only experienced the $5 half-pint of sour blueberries from their local shopping center, it's a revelation. (On my last trip, a 10# box was running $20). If you're a blueberry lover the 6-hour drive to South Haven, Saugatuck or Douglas is well worth a long weekend trip. Don't forget, blueberries freeze really well. Just rinse, dry and portion into small baggies.

One of the classic blueberry memories of my childhood is a recipe, actually more of a combination, that my family acquired from Ruth Ellen Church, the late food and wine writer from the Chicago Tribune. It's incredibly simple, and undeniable delcious.

Blueberries
Serves 4

Fresh Blueberries, Rinsed and Dried 1 pint
Sour Cream, Creme Fraiche or Yogurt 1/4 Cup
Dark Brown Sugar or Unrefined Sugar 2 Tablespoons

In small bowls top the blueberries with a dollup of the dairy and sprinkle with the sugar. The crunchy sweetness of the coarse sugar with the creaminess of the topping and the texture of the blueberries is an incredible combination.

Salsalicious

2007-06-30T17:59:00.000-07:00

It's summertime which means I'm cooking in Saugatuck, Michigan for the first family of food: The Winstons. Going North for a part of the summer has been a ritual of mine for several years now, and just as much a tradition once I've arrived has been the annual salsa making session with Rosalyn Winston (the oldest daughter). Usually Rozie and I couple our salsa with a larger Mexican feast, drawing many of the ingredients from the great Latin markets in Southwestern Michigan. On this occasion however we chose to simply fry some homemade tortilla chips and make a flavorful cooked salsa from the first of the summer's tomatoes. (I think I ended up making Chinese that night).

Rozie is a big fan of the type of cooked salsa I learned to make from the Mexican line and prep cooks who worked for me when I was running commercial kitchens. They had a very quick and easy recipe for their "comida" salsas which were typically made for staff meal, the meal a restaurant crew eats before or after service. The simple slate of ingredients usually included a whole ripe tomato, a whole jalepeno, one roasted onion and a generous dash of salt. Cover these ingredients with a little cold water and simmer until everything breaks-down, about 15-20 minutes. Then puree in food processor until smooth. We would eat it at room temperature with a squeeze of lime and freshly ground black pepper. It was incredibly refreshing, especially in a super-hot restaurant kitchen in the middle of summer.

For our salsa Rozie and I followed the general procedure that I learned years ago with a few modifications. First we blanched the tomato to remove the skin, which would make the salsa smoother. Then we seeded and stemmed the jalepeno to make it less spicy, something my Mexican crew would scoff at. Finally we peeled and diced a whole ripe mango to provide some added sweetness, important when not using local tomatoes at the peek of their season and ripeness. This salsa is great not only with corn chips but also as a sauce for grilled chicken or fish.

Rozie's Tomato Salsa
Makes 3 Cups

Ripe Tomatoes, Peeled & Diced 3 Medium
Sweet Onion, Roasted & Diced 1 Small
Jalepeno, Seeded & Diced 1 Small
Ripe Mango, Peeled & Diced 1 Small
Lime Juice from 2-3 Limes
Fresh Cilantro, Chopped (optional) 1/4 Cup
Kosher Salt & Fresh Black Pepper To Taste

Combine everything but the cilantro and lime juice in a medium saucepan with 1/4 Cup cold water. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer until everything is tender, about 20 or 30 minutes. Allow to cool slightly and puree in food processor or blender until smooth. Season to taste and stir in lime juice and cilantro. Serve at room temperature. Will keep for several days refrigerated.

Everything that Falls off a Hamburger

2007-06-08T09:14:00.000-07:00

I taught a cooking class/team building event the other night for a group from Edward Jones with a focus on summer fixings, or as I fondly refer to them "everything that falls off a hamburger". The class was a hands-on exercise where we made a variety of homemade pickles, creative mustards, relishes and even my take on 'real' tomato ketchup, and then paired them with the appropriate main course (ie. sausages, burgers, steak, fish). I explained to the class that the subject matter was very near and dear to me not just because of the time in film school when I virtually lived off of condiments (who doesn't in college?), but rather that even today my favorite part of a good hamburger or sausage usually turns out to be the tangy, salty and sweet stuff that goes on top. So in the spirit of the "condiment season" here's a recipe for coriander-orange mustard. A super simple recipe, it's great with any type of burger or sausage, and is a great glaze for grilled salmon. Enjoy!

Coriander-Orange Mustard
Makes 1 Cup of Mustard

Coriander Seeds 1 Teaspoon
Dried Orange Rind ½ Teaspoon

Dijon Mustard, Smooth 1 Cup
Honey ½ Cup

Preparation Procedure-
Using a mortar and pestle or clean spice/coffee grinder grind coriander seeds and orange rind until powder. Mix with Dijon and honey. Refrigerate.

2007-05-21T09:11:00.000-07:00

For the Pasta and Music Alone, Worth the 10-Straight Busy Signals

While in New York recently I had the opportunity to dine at Mario Batali's flagship eatery the revered Babbo Ristorante, which is by many accounts the toughest reservation in town. That would explain my purse-designer sister's glee at managing a Monday night same-day reservation (albeit after a mild onset of blackberry carpal tunnel from having to call 11 or 12 times to get through to the reservationist). For resident New Yorkers, where everything is crowded virtually all the time, gaining access to one of the coveted "crowded places" has an understandable cache attached to it. And despite, or perhaps as a result of, having just returned from a trip to Europe where I'd eaten in some of the best restaurants in the world, I was excited as well. Part of my enthusiasm came from having had great meals in several of Batali's other restaurants (Lupa & Esca). Also I thoroughly enjoyed Bill Buford's book Heat which documents in great detail life in the Babbo kitchen and the huge personality that is Mario Batali. Mainly though it was Babbo's reputation for serving delicious, creative, and authentic contemporary Italian food in an unfussy setting that had me hyped.

The Babbo experience did not disappoint. Their winelist is among the best Italian lists I've ever seen (the Franz Haas 'Manna' from Trentino-Alto Adige was a fun and memorable wine) and the food was exciting, yet familiar. We had some salumi made by Batali's father who has a salami shop in Seattle (when thinking about great salami who thinks the Pacific Northwest?), great lamb's tongue with morels (it tastes like full-flavored beef brisket) a bunch of different homemade pastas and assorted carne, as well as a Brachetto d'Acqui with some cheese for dessert.

In it's essence Babbo is a great neighborhood restaurant that no one in the neighborhood can get into (my sister lives a couple blocks away). I will remember the surreal environment of our dinner for a long time: elderly Italian couple to our left looking slightly confused, director Mike Nichols (The Graduate) to our right, Grateful Dead playing on the stereo as if we were at The Blue Bird in Leelanau, Michigan.

In the spirit of our "Pasta Fest", here's one of my pasta dough recipes. I use different doughs for different types of pasta, but this version is great for any stuffed pasta or an egg rich pasta (ie. tagliatelle).

Flour 2 ½ Cups
Semolina Flour 2 ½ Cups
Eggs, Room Temp 8
Olive Oil, Extra Virgin 1 Teaspoon
Water ¼ Cup, or as needed

Preparation Procedure:

In a food processor pulse flour and semolina to combine. Whisk together eggs and olive oil. With the machine running, pour the egg mixture through the feed tube and add just enough water for the dough to come together into a mass. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface and knead for 5 – 10 minutes, until smooth and resilient. Wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate for 30 minutes to allow dough to relax before proceeding.

2007-05-21T07:31:00.000-07:00

Parsley, Sage, Rosemary & Thyme..plus Basil, a lot of Basil

It's garden time for most of America. When we cooks ambitiously decide to plant three varieties of lavender to infuse our own honey or think that we'll finally have time to work on some recipes using lemon balm. Well here is where Kirk saves you quite a bit of time and garden space: you won't and you don't. Take it from me, someone who cooks with any and all unusual ingredients (everything from purslane to cuitlacoche), when it comes to your private garden save it's precious terra firma for herbs you'll use frequently. In other words: Italian parsley, thyme, rosemary, a little sage, chives, cilantro (pots), mint (pots), dill, tarragon (pot) and basil, a lot of basil. If space allows, I recommend planting twice as much parsley and basil as the rest, it's amazing how much you'll use with your favorite summer recipes. Also, plant the cilantro, tarragon and mint in pots. The cilantro and tarragon because they sometimes grows better if not constantly in direct sunlight and pots keep the mint from taking over the rest of the garden. Follow this recommendation and not only will you get a lot more from your garden, but will undoubtedly be surprised at how rarely you find yourself craving fennel pollen or lemon verbena.

2007-05-04T14:38:00.000-07:00

Putting a Little Chez Panisse Back in Paris

I have been guilty for years of badmouthing restaurant food in France, specifically Paris. Not the cuisine, but the restaurants. I've always said that if you wanted to spend several hundred dollars per person, then yes, you could have a great food experience. That the so called "temples of gastronomy" (Guy Savoy, Alain Chapel, Alain Ducasse, etc.) were still knocking it out of the proverbial culinary park. But if you were looking for simply a really good restaurant serving solid, original food in a stylish environment- good luck! The types of local, independent restaurants we cherish, yet to a certain extent take for granted, in cities all over this country seem to be a rare commodity in France. Maybe it's the French labor laws or business culture that make it very hard for small, independent restaurants. Perhaps it comes from cooking a cuisine that is so revered that there aren't many young chefs willing to experiment or take chances. Who knows, so just when I was about to give up on eating out casually in Paris, I recently came across a gem on the left bank, adjacent to the Hotel Saint-Germain: Le Comptoir. Chef Yves Camdeborde clearly isn't one of those chefs afraid to take some liberties with his native cuisine. His locally sourced food prepared in a simply yet original fashion has taken Paris by storm. He is credited with reinvigorating the local food movement in restaurants throughout Paris. (I sampled the outstanding Brandade de Morue, Veal Breast with Baby Artichokes, French Green Lentil Soup with Foie Gras Butter). Dinner reservations for the incredibly reasonable, set prix fixe dinner are among the hardest to get in the city, so go for an early or late lunch. Here are the specifics for the next time you're in Paris:

Le Comptoir
Hôtel Relais Saint-Germain
9, carrefour de l’Odéon
Paris 75006
phone: +33 (0)1 44 22 07 97
fax: +33 (0)1 46 33 45 30

2007-04-17T09:53:00.000-07:00

Cooking in Clapham

On a recent trip to the UK I had the opportunity to cook a modest, small-plate dinner party for 20 at my brother's home in the Clapham neighborhood of London. I say modest because typically these small-plate affairs require days of advance prep and I allowed myself only a day to prepare this spread. It wasn't a problem in that I followed one of the oldest rules of cooking: when working with exceptional ingredients, keep it simple. And at the Borough Market in central London, where I did most of my shopping, exceptional ingredients are about the only thing available. Now, I'm no novice when it comes to foreign markets, having frequented some of the best in France, Italy, Mexico and China, but I've never been as impressed with the variety and quality as I was on several recent trips to London's signature food emporium. To be honest, the Borough Market has had time to work out the kinks having been at its current location for over 250 years and in the vicinity for 20 centuries. It's a reality of visiting almost anywhere outside the US, but I couldn't help but pause to think that where I was buying turnips had been around longer than my own country.

When shopping at any market, and when I don't have any specific dishes in mind to prepare, I always visit the produce farmers first. Seasonal produce will change on a monthly, if not weekly, basis while things like meat and cheese will have less fluctuation (although the Scottish spring lamb I had in the UK was among the best I've had anywhere and according to the butcher only available for a few months). There is one clear sign that a market is a grower's market vs. a seller's market (a grower's market being one where all the food on had has been grown/raised by the people at the market while a seller's market is usually like an outdoor shopping center with merchants reselling shipped-in goods). If virtually all the produce being sold by the different vendors is the same and slightly unique (meaning not everyone is selling lemons and oranges) it probably is a grower's market. On the days I visited the Borough Market you saw a lot of beets, kohlrabi, bulb onions, and spring carrots. Some great looking stuff, but not a lot to work with. Thankfully, the various meat, seafood and cheese vendors more than made up for the slightly wanting early season produce. The primary seafood monger had an awesome array of European seafood that is hard to find in the US. Things like: in the shell Bristol Bay scallops, red mullet, langoustines, smoked eel, as well as a variety of native French and English Oysters. Then there was Scottish spring lamb, fresh rabbit, guinea hen, quail, capon, squab.. for some reason it all made me think about Jean Renoir's classic class, hunting film "Rules of the Game" (in retrospect as my anniversary was only a few days away perhaps I should have been reminded of 'Tom Jones'). But despite my enjoyment of shopping at the various butcher stands and seafood tables, probably the highlight of the market for me, and I'm sure many others, is Neal's Yard Dairy's shop just of the central market. The room could have been a scene out of 'Wallace and Grommit' for its cartoonish quantities of cheese (yes, of course there was a Wensleydale). The best part was you could sample any of the offerings. The great thing about visiting this market, if you enjoyed it as much as I did, is that while the memories might very well be fleeting, the smell of the ripe cheese on your hands probably isn't.

The biggest challenge for me whenever I cook in Europe, having done it several times now, isn't the unfamiliar terrain for shopping, lack of staff help, or even slate of new ingredients. No, the most frustrating thing always ends up being the size of the refrigerators. Usually about the size of the trunk on a SMART car, the old country's ice closets are typically energy efficient and indicative of a culture that does it's shopping every day (and I must say this is one of the things I LOVE about Europe). But tell that to someone lugging enough food for a multi-course meal for thirty (including 15# of sea scallops in their shell, a slab of lamb, and enough NYD cheese to open a wine & cheese shop). Needless to say, it's a good thing I wasn't planning on prepping several days prior to the dinner.

The dinner itself, after the extensive shopping and carting of goods throughout London's underground train system, was pretty low-key. Mostly native-English colleagues and friends of my brother and sister-in-law. They were all intrigued at the idea of having family visit for "holiday" and then putting them to work cooking a dinner for several dozen. They clearly didn't know my family, where even if it's just four of us, we still cook for twenty. Yet despite the ease with which we cook for large groups, I must say, it's nice having an assistant, albeit a neophyte. My wife, Carol, who I've been reluctant to bring into the cooking business as she already does everything else better than me, was a wonderful assistant and did a great job in putting her abilities as an artist to work in finishing many of the dishes. It ended up being a lovely affair with everyone seemingly having a "grand" time. We served: Treviso Radicchio with NYD Blue Cheese, Blood Orange & Balsamic, Dates stuffed with Chicken Liver & Almonds, Lamb Satay with Sri Lankan Spices, Kohlrabi with Smoked Herring & Pickled Beets, Crab Tartlets with Creme Fraiche and Asparagus, Grilled Pizzettas with Assorted Spanish Hams & Cheeses, Sunchoke & Potato Gratin with Cumin Flecked Dutch Farmcheese, among other things I can no longer recall. After any party you usually come away with observations, like: "it was a big eating group" or "they loved the red wine". On this night I couldn't help but commenting that none of the English guests ever sat down. This wasn't that unusual, as most of the food was designed as finger food and could be enjoyed in one-bite, but the fact that they all stood for almost five hours straight surprised me a bit. Maybe it has to do with the fact that they're so used to running out for more foodstuffs, because they weren't able to fit it in their refrigerators the first time, that they never allow themselves to settle-in. Just a theory.
Then again if I lived near the Borough Market I'd run-out every chance I got.

2007-04-10T13:23:00.000-07:00

Dispatches from London

They used to say that the "sun never sets on the British Empire", which of course hasn't been true for decades. After a recent trip to London I must comment on an equally antiquated misconception regarding English food. An old joke has it that English accents were developed because the Britons were trying to find ways to talk while preventing British food from entering their mouths. At one time true? Perhaps. But it couldn't be further from the truth in modern Britain. In fact, one would have a hard time arguing that London isn't one of the top food cities in the world. Naysayers would claim that this amazing "food revolution" is the result of transplants cooking foreign food (ie. French, Indian, Japanese), and that English food is as bland and uninteresting as ever. Having just returned from the UK, where I made it a point to explore "New English Cooking" in all its forms, innovative and delicious takes on traditional English food are flourishing today throughout the UK. Here is a short listing of my must-visit restaurants serving inspired cuisine.

The Fat Duck Labelled the 'Best Restaurant in the World' by Restaurant Magazine (albeit an English publication), Heston Blumenthal's Michelin 3-star establishment invites comparisons to other food destinations (think El Bulli) that play with the chemistry of cooking. Located in a 450-year-old former pub in the quaint village of Bray, about an hour outside London, The Fat Duck experience is difficult to put into words. Borrowing from the experience a chef colleague of mine had at El Bulli, Ferran Adria's landmark restaurant in Roses Spain, he said: "I can totally respect the experience, but I'd never want to cook that way." It is eating as an intellectual exercise, designed to have you question the very nature of the foods you've grown-up eating. Blumenthal adheres to the principles of 'molecular gastronomy', according to which the quality of the diner's experience can be enhanced considerably when the physical and chemical processes that take place in cooking are understood. Thus the menu reads like a child's worst culinary nightmare: 'snail prridge', 'sardine on toast sorbet', 'salmon poached with liquorice', 'nitro-scrambled egg and bacon ice cream', but plays-out in a much more satisfying way. In fact the snail porridge was a revelation, tasting like the best onion soup you've ever had. However, the sardine sorbet and salmon poached in liquorice were interesting but not nearly as delectible. All in all, if you love food, you'd be short-changing yourself by not sampling this type of food experience at least once. It can be a lot of fun, a fancy restaurant run by Willy Wonka, and by all accounts it is where "eating as entertainment" is headed. (If you don't feel like travelling to Spain or the UK, Alinea in Chicago is getting rave reviews in doing similar culinary experimentation.)

St. John If The Fat Duck is Willy Wonka cooking, the St. John is Sweeney Todd. Located in the heart of London's meatpacking district, and to borrow from the title of its creator's (Fergus Henderson) cookbook, St. John is "Nose to Tail Eating". Renowned for their use of the whole animal, you won't find any chicken breasts on the menu, St. John is an offal lover's paradise. The setting is stark white and bare, the walls are simple adorned with coat hooks. It gives the impression of eating in some Orwellian asylum. But that is the point. St. John is a 'temple of the hog' (or cow, or lamb, etc.), where the raw material is the star. You'll find no herb sprig or micro green garnish, in fact you don't even usually get a sauce unless it's part of a braise. What you will get is impeccably sourced and prepared New English food: 'middlewhite & chicory', 'smoked eel, bacon & mash', 'Braised Ox Kidneys & Swede'. Not to mention amazing classic desserts (just think a lot of puddings). St. John is Chez Panisse from a working-class, British perspective.

The Anchor & Hope I had been hearing a lot about gastropubs before I travelled to the UK. It seems recently that any new restaurant to open in the states with good, simple, often locally sourced food and a list of boutique beers is labelled a gastropub. Now after visiting one of London's most popular gastropubs, the Anchor & Hope, it could easily have been labelled "favorite neighborhood joint in a good food city". While that doesn't exactly roll off the tongue like gastropub, what I'm trying to say is The Anchor & Hope reminded me of a lot of independent, casual, restaurants in the US. Dark wood, no pretense, a solid wine list with a few good beers on tap. The menu is printed daily, and has some fanciful European-inspired dishes 'torchon of foie gras with prunes' as well as English staples 'steak & kidney pie'. It was the kind of place I could see myself visiting every week. And you could sense the community that had developed there. It was like a great neighborhood restaurant in New York or San Francisco.

2007-03-16T11:17:00.000-07:00

Irish Eyes Can Smile, But We're Making Choucroute

As the most significant holiday to revolve, at least to a certain extent, around cabbage, St. Patrick's Day isn't exactly a gourmand's dream. If you're a food person the dry meat, boiled potatoes, chalky bread, and the aforementioned boiled cabbage (with the distinctive aroma of your 12-year-old's gym socks) is enough to turn you green. And since Americanized cuisine associated with St. Patrick's Day is as authentic to Ireland as deep-fried ravioli is to Italy, I don't feel bad recommending my Alsatian-style Choucroute (sauerkraut) with Pork and Sausages. In my thinking, good sauerkraut is to cabbage what caviar is to fish roe. So skip the faux Irish feast and try this true homage to the sublime cabbage. If you still don't feel right about it, buy some Guinness.

Alsatian-Style Choucroute with Pork & Sausage
Serves 6-8

Roasted Pork Loin, Bone-in 5-6#, Sliced into Chops
Assorted Cooked Fresh Sausage 6-8 Sausage, Cut in 1/2
(use a variety: chicken sausage, good-quality hot dogs, bratwurst, etc.)
Peeled, Cooked Creamer Potatoes 6-8 potatoes

Thick-Cut Bacon, Cut into 2” 8 Pieces
Onion, Sliced 1 Onion
Carrot, Shredded 1 Medium
Celery, Shredded 1 Stalk
Bagged Sauerkraut, Rinsed/Drained 2#
Juniper Berries, Sachet 8
Bay Leaves, Sachet 2
Kosher Salt 1 Teaspoon
Fresh Black Pepper To Taste
Green Lentils, Cooked (optional) 1 ½ Cups
White Wine 1 ½ Cups
Chicken Stock ¾ Cup
Tuscan Kale, Julienned (optional) 2 Cups

Italian Parsley, Minced (to garnish) 1/2 Cup

Preparation Procedure- Preheat oven to 350d.
In a large braising pan, brown bacon over medium-high heat. Add onion, carrot and celery. Cook for 5 minutes or so, add sauerkraut, sachet (juniper and bay leaf wrapped in cheesecloth), and kale. Cook until kale is wilted, add wine, lentils (if using) and chicken stock. Bring to a boil, season with salt and pepper. Cover with parchment and foil (or lid). Bake for 1 hour. Remove from oven, add pork, potatoes and sausage, bake for 25-30 minutes. Garnish with parsley.

2007-02-12T10:18:00.000-08:00

The Kitchen Travels to NYC

I just got back from several days of corporate leadership work on the East Coast. One of the growing offerings of Kirk's Traveling Kitchen is corporate development (ie. leadership training) programs involving food and/or wine. These programs are a fantastic opportunity for small or large businesses to develop communication skills, bond as a team or explore how working in a tight spot can empower their employees(think active kitchen with lots of sharp knives/hot pans and the deadline of being responsible for different parts of a meal that will be judged by trained chefs). In the global, multi-cultural work place these types of cooking programs are the "new golf" (and for most participants a lot more fun and rewarding).

Besides the time spent working I also got to spend a day with my sister (a purse designer in Chelsea with her own line raw-bags) exploring what's happening on the New York food scene. Here are my impressions:

Mary's Fish Camp This tiny, seafood restaurant in The Village is a reminder of the type of restaurant I crave most in my native St. Louis: the unpretentious neighborhood joint. MFC offers fantastic seafood of all kinds, and also runs a fish camp in Florida. Try the lobster roll, fried smelts or bouillabaisse.

Fatty Crab Another tiny restaurant in The Village (anyone catching a trend here), but Fatty Crab is a unique, Malaysian-inspired gem. Even smaller than Mary's Fish Camp and with an eclectic menu of crispy pork, crab & noodles. When you think Malaysian, think: shrimp paste, chiles, kejap manis and palm sugar. On there own they don't inspire reverence, but when these ingredients get combined (in one form or another) it's magic. One of my favorite features, besides serving the best Asian beer in the world: Hitachino Nest, is actually something they don't do. Fatty Crab doesn't have a dessert menu, rather they bring a few delicious coconut bars with the check. With the popularity and quality of New York's various "dessert bars", I give kudos to Fatty Crab for not trying to make Malaysian-inspired creme brulee.

Upstairs at Bouley The most casual installment of Chef David Bouley's restaurant empire (Bouley, Danube, Bouley Bakery, Etc.) is also one of the coolest second-floor restaurants I've visited. With a great, open kitchen and sushi bar they offer one of the most eclectic, quality menus in New York (burger, gnocchi, eel nigiri..what?). I highly recommend this route to trying the food of one of New York's best chefs. Gear-up for the wine list, however. It utilizes the offerings from the fabulous Bouley/Danube lists and has a median price of well over $100 per bottle. (Burger + First-Growth Bordeaux= Hardee's Commercial).

August As rustic as you're going to find in New York, this restaurant could easily be a Northern California transplant. A warm space, complete with a wood-burning oven and glass-enclosed atrium, I wanted to visit again when it was snowing. I had an incredibly creative, cubano-style, sandwich with chorizo, gruyere, dates & mustard. It's a 'wich I'll not soon forget.

2007-01-26T11:41:00.000-08:00

Culinary Verite

During my short stint at film school in the mid-90's I was constantly asked the question:"What's your favorite movie?".
I'd always answer that picking one was impossible, but perhaps I could narrow it down to ten (and even that might be a stretch). Well now that my professional life has taken a decidedly less cinematic turn, the question du jour is now the equally tough: "What's your favorite food?". Which, as I think about it, might even be more difficult to answer (although I'd pay to see the
10-course, winner-takes-all bout: Rustic Italian vs. Royal Thai). So in an effort to answer these questions, simultaneously, I am now going to list my favorite "food films", in no particular order.

Eat Drink Man Woman (1994) The opening scene of this Ang Lee masterwork is one of the most visually stunning filmed food sequences in history. And if you feel like Mexican, rent "Tortilla Soup" a lesser remake with a Latino flare.

Babette's Feast (1987) A Danish film based on the short story by Isak Dineson. If this film doesn't make you want to throw a beautiful dinner party, nothing will. This film was the inspiration for 'Chocolat', just without the metaphysical mumbojumbo.

Celebration (1998) Another Danish film, this one by Thomas Vinterberg, but with a black comedic streak. A great film to watch at family gatherings, provided there are no major skeletons in the closet.

Tampopo (1995) The Japonese noodle film with a great performance from a young Ken Watanabe.

Heavy (1995) This small, indie made by James Mangold is more a story of unrequited love than a foodie film. However, the scenes at the Culinary Institute of America are interesting.

Mostly Martha (2000) German chefs falling in love while on the line. Believable and entertaining, with great scenes in the kitchen.

Big Night (1996) There isn't a "top food films" list that doesn't include this one. I added it simply for the "two starches" scene.

And a few films that aren't really food related, but have really powerfuly scenes involving food or cooking: Goodfellas (garlic), Munich (French cooking, offal), The Cook The Thief His Wife and Her Lover (cannibalism).

2007-01-05T14:12:00.000-08:00

It's 2007, Eat Healthy

I'm not one for resolutions, especially when it comes to eating. So I'm not going to lecture about all the great things you can do with white meat chicken and brown rice now that the holidays are over and you want to try and shed the pounds brought on by Aunt Nancy's fruit cake. But if eating healthier without having to resort to chemical-laden "fat free" cheese recipes is your aim, I can point out a couple of cuisines you should get to know better: Vietnamese and Thai.

Both offer assertively flavored dishes that focus on contrast (think: sweet/spicy, crisp/soft, tangy/smooth, etc.). And they derive their flavor primarily from fermented seafood (fish sauce, shrimp paste, etc.), citrus and chiles. Not from tons of oil, butter or other high-fat, high-calorie components. And both Vietnamese and Thai food offer delicious, healthy choices for this time of year, the calendar period formerly known as winter (I'm writing this in St. Louis and it's sixty degrees). A lot of brothy soups and stews full of vegetables and finished with fresh herbs. Here's a recipe for my version of a classic Thai soup Tom Yum Gai.

Thai-Style Hot & Sour Broth with Shrimp Dumplings
Serves 8

Chicken Stock, Homemade 2 Quarts
Lemongrass, Minced 2 Stalks, Inner Leaves Only
Fish Sauce ¼ Cup
Chile Oil 1 Tablespoon
Lime Zest 1 Lime
Lime Juice 1 Lime
Lemon Juice 1 Lemon
Kaffir Lime Leaf (optional) 1 Leaf

Shrimp Dumplings
Shrimp, Peeled & Deveined 1#
Shallot, Diced 1 Small
Garlic, Minced 2 Cloves
Oyster Sauce 1/2 Cup
Edamame, Peeled (Soy Beans) 1 Cup
Fresh Basil, Julienned (optional) 1/2 Cup
Gyoza Potsticker Wrappers as needed
Egg, Beaten 1

Bean Sprouts 4 Cups
Favorite Vegetables (Broccoli,
Carrot, Snow Peas, Etc.) as needed
Cilantro 1 bunch
Lime, Cut in 8 wedges 1
Preparation Procedure-

First make the dumplings. Combine shrimp, shallot, garlic, oyster sauce, edamame, and basil in food processor. Blend until comes together, but not so much that it looses all texture (you don't want a paste). Transfer to a bowl and refrigerate for 30 min. or so. Meanwhile, lay out gyoza wrappers on clean surface and brush with egg wash. Top each wrapper with a spoonful of shrimp mixture (about 2 Tablespoons worth), press down so the mixture spreads over wrapper and bring together in the palm of your hand (it should look like a jelly fish without tentacles). Set aside on parchment lined sheetpan and finish remaining dumplings. Bring water to a boil in a wok or large skillet, place dumplings in a bamboo steamer lined with lettuce or some other green so the pasta doesn't stick. Steam dumplings for 5-8 minutes or until cooked through. Turn off heat and keep warm.

For the hot and sour broth, combine all the broth ingredients, bring to a rapid boil and simmer for 30 minutes. Remove from heat and steep 20 minutes longer. Strain, ladle over warm dumplings, bean sprouts and favorite vegetables. Garnish with cilantro, lime wedge and serve.

2006-12-21T11:44:00.000-08:00

Coming Up For Air..with Goat Cheese Stuffed Dates

I promise there is a very good excuse as to why I haven't posted anything here in quite a while (try seven weeks!). Actually, many good excuses. Private parties, corporate events, many cooking classes, and, not to be left out, even an episode for a reality TV show. Anyway, before I start ranting on why I don't have pets and only keep plants that can live on humidity, let's get to the point. After all, it's not like you don't have stuff to do.

One of the most popular appetizers I've been making this holiday season also happens to be the easiest. It's a classic combination, with a slight twist, and is absolutely perfect as a holiday hors d'oeuvres.

Goat Cheese Stuffed Medjool Dates

Medjool Dates, Pitted/Halved 10-15
Brandy ½ Cup
Goat Cheese, Softened 8oz.
Whole Almonds, Marcona 10-15ea.
Pappadew Peppers, Quartered 6-8
Bread Crumbs, Preferably Homemade 1 Cup

Preparation Procedure-

Preheat oven 350d.. Soak pitted/halved dates in brandy 15 min. or so. Remove from liquid and stuff with almond and goat cheese. Top with piece of pappadew pepper and bread crumbs. Place on lined sheet pan and bake 10-15 min. or until toasted. Serve warm or at room temperature.

2006-11-07T14:15:00.000-08:00

Restaurant Gary Danko

On a recent trip to Northern California I had the opportunity to work at one of the best restaurants in San Francisco, and the country for that matter: Restaurant Gary Danko (www.garydanko.com). Through the cookbook author and culinary world traveler Joanne Weir (she and chef Danko studied under the culinary legend M. Kamman) I was able to line-up what the restaurant industry refers to as a "trail" or "stage", spending a day observing the action behind the kitchen doors. Trailing is both a courtesy and a requirement throughout the restaurant world, in the states and abroad. Since restaurants began chefs have allowed, even encouraged, their peers to explore their kitchens, observe the staff, the technique, food, etc.. It's considered an opportunity to share ideas and see a different way of doing things. And while restaurants often utilize similar systems to produce their product, there are always facets that are unique to each system. (For example at Restaurant Gary Danko, they have a waiter, instead of a chef, act as the expeditor, the person who organizes all the plated food and ensures it goes to the right table and is properly prepared.) Trailing also is a practical way to weed-out prospective cooks who want to gain entry into a kitchen. Most good restaurants require cooks to work several shifts "trailing" an established line cook, often without pay, at a restaurant where they'd like to work. It allows the staff to assess the applicants abilities, temperment, cleanliness, etc. The more successful and respected the restaurant, the higher the demand for trailing opportunities. So when the chance came to spend a day at Gary Danko, I jumped at it.

I arrived at the restaurant and entered via the sliding door around back. Restaurant Gary Danko is located in the Russian Hill section of San Francisco, a beautiful, ritzy neighborhood overlooking the bay. I met with Colin, the ranking sous chef, and he preceded to give me a tour of the restaurant. Their kitchen is consistent with those of most nice restaurants located in the heart of expensive cities. It is compact and every inch of space is occupied. The pastry station on one end, butcher's corner on the other, with the various stations in between. Colin explains to me that the kitchen was refurbished several years ago, when new formal Garland ranges were installed and the line set-up to more efficiently accomodate the 170 to 200 patrons they serve nightly (Restaurant Gary Danko typically fills its available reservations two months out; after all it has a higher Zagat rating than The French Laundry). The dining room is very formal (a meal for two, with wine, will easily surpass $200)and Northern California modern, with a lot of exposed dark wood. By the time we finish the tour the kitchen is abuzz with activity (the night cooks arrive before 1pm and are lucky to be done by midnight) as the line cooks and daytime prep chefs jockey for space. Despite the overall size of the kitchen (about half the square footage of several kitchens where I've worked) there appeared to be twice as many cooks scheduled to work as I was used to (for the size of the restaurant). Like a good liberal arts college with its low student to professor ratio, the true mark of a exemplary restaurant is the ratio of people working to people eating. Where a high-quality midrange restaurant might expect to schedule 5 cooks to serve 170 guests, Restaurant Gary Danko had 11 working. Another distinguishing trait between really good restaurants and "special" restaurants is the service staff. At Gary Danko these individuals, a well-starched, confident and professional looking group, seemed to know they were a part of something important and world-class. They had a laidbackness born from complete confidence in what they were trying to do. As if they were so sure of themselves and the kitchen that they didn't have to be stuffy.

The food at Restaurant Gary Danko is understated and prepared with great technique. Surveying the kitchen you could see that each cook had been taught the intricacies of their station: the fish cook knew how to handle delicate seafood, the meat guy let his beef rest before slicing it, etc.. It was exciting to watch this competent group work their way through an ambitious menu during a busy dinner service. The menu parity was impressive as well. With each wave of 'courses' each item from the menu seemed to get ordered (Gary Danko offers the option of a 3 course/$61, 4 course/$77 or 5 course/$92 prix fixe). Things like Guinea Hen with Clam Ragout and Moroccan Spiced Squab sold in unison with Beef Tenderloin and Herb Crusted Loin of Lamb. Another mark of a superior restaurant, having a clientele willing to try unusual dishes knowing that they will not be disappointed.

As is the tradition with trailing in the restaurant world, I came away from my experience at Restaurant Gary Danko with an idea of how to do some things differently as well as with affirmation that I do many things in the kitchen exactly as they should be done. The exhilaration of watching some of the best in the business do their work and witnessing them do it just as you would is supremely satisfying. I left knowing that my culinary journey is not yet complete, but glad to know at least I was on the right path.

2006-10-03T12:00:00.000-07:00

Dog Days of October

For well over a week I had been planning on for my next blog entry to be a toast to the changing seasons; out with the summer bounty and in with the fall harvest. But as the temperature here in St. Louis approaches the triple-digits in the first few days of October, I now think it better to combine the summeresque weather with the autumnal date through the help of a recipe that focuses on cooking in both seasons. (After all, how often do you get to enjoy the changing colors of the leaves while sweating your butt off?) Why not light up that grill one more time before storing it away for the long, extremely cold winter (or at least that's what the farmer's almanac says it'll be). This recipe for Celery Heart Salsa Verde is perfect with grilled beef, pork or salmon and utilizes one of my favorite vegetables, one in it's prime during the fall and winter, the versatile celery root. Celery Root (aka. "celeriac") has a pungent celery-like flavor and is, in fact, a special variety of celery, developed by gardeners during the Renaissance. It is delicious prepared any number of ways, but I especially like it in its raw state; in the spirit of the traditional French remoulade (a creamy, tart relish made from celery root). So pull-out the deck furniture, throw-on your favorite short-sleeved BBQ shirt and savor the summer one last time. Just don't try serving a sliced tomato salad.

Celery Heart Salsa Verde (Makes 3 Cups)

Celery, Pale Inner Stalks,
Plus all Leaves, Small Dice 2 Cups
Celery Root, Peeled/Diced Â½ Cup
Pappadew Peppers, Diced Â½ Cup
Pappadew Pepper Brine 1/3 Cup
Capers, Soaked in Cold Water 4oz.
Anchovy, Soaked/Minced 2 Fillets
Shallots, Sliced Thin 2 Small
Garlic, Hand Minced 3 Cloves
Chives, Minced 2 Tablespoons
Italian Parsley, Minced 2 Tablespoons
Extra Virgin Olive Oil Â½ Cup
Salt & Fresh Pepper To Taste

Preparation Procedure-

Combine, mix thoroughly. Keeps 10 days. Goes great with any grilled or roasted meat.

2006-09-21T19:41:00.000-07:00

Surprise in What?

I had planned on devoting more time to this entry, but the forces of nature and a big party tomorrow have conspired to keep it brief. As part of a monthly food bloggers event titled "Sugar High Friday" and hosted this month by St. Louis' own Alanna Kellogg (for SHF specifics visit her blog: (kitchen-parade-veggieventure.blogspot.com/2006/08/surprise-announcement-sugar-high.html). This month's SHF theme was "Surprise Inside" recipes, meaning a sweet treat with a special something under the surface. I actually came up with my recipe for a cooking class I was teaching this week at the local Viking Store. It was a fundraiser for the Clayton Farmer's Market where I was paired with a local farmer- a bison farm to be exact. Suffice it to say my interest in creating a "Bison Pot de Creme" was nil (although what a "surprise inside" that would have made). Instead I adapted this moist apple cake flavored with green cardamom (much less assertive than black) with a molten center of caramel sauce made with apple cider. It's seasonal and a little different, but not as surprising as it could have been.

Cardamom-Apple Cake with Molten Cider-Caramel

Quantity Produced: Makes 12 Individual Cakes

Tart Apples, Peeled/Grated 6 Apples
Light Brown Sugar, Packed 3 Cups
Eggs 3
Flour 3 2/3 Cups
Green Cardamom, Ground 1 teaspoon
Cinnamon 1 ½ teaspoons
Salt ¼ teaspoon
Baking Soda 2 ½ teaspoons
Pecans, Chopped 1 ½ Cups
Vanilla Extract 1 ½ teaspoons
Butter, Softened 3 oz.
Oil, Canola (neutral oil) 3 oz.

Cider-Caramel Sauce (Makes 1 ½ Cups)

Apple Cider 3 Cups
Vanilla Bean, Scraped 1
Dark Brown Sugar ½ Cup (Packed)
Butter, Unsalted ¼ Cup
Heavy Cream ½ Cup

Preparation Procedure for Cider-Caramel Sauce-

Reduce cider by half, add vanilla bean, sugar, butter and cream. Reduce until thick. Keep warm

Preparation Procedure for Apple Cake-

Preheat oven 350d.. Combine softened butter & oil in mixer using paddle attachment. Add sugar, egg and vanilla. Mix until combined. Add dry ingredients (flour, baking soda, salt, cinnamon & cardamom).
Mix until combined. Add grated apple and chopped pecans, mix until combined. Using greased individual ramekins, spoon cider-caramel into bottoms of each ramekin (at least 1 Tablespoon) and top with spoonful of apple cake batter. Bake 45min. to 1 hour. Dust with powdered sugar and serve warm in ramekin.

2006-09-10T13:08:00.000-07:00

Paul's Killer Pots

In the close-knit world of farmer's markets, and those who frequent them, it's inevitable that certain farmers become known for their profile almost as much as the produce they're growing. In the St. Louis area markets you have: The Picture Perfect Abrahams of Berger Bluff Farm (known for their tomatoes & leafy veggies), the Hip & Happening Sam and Joanna of Claverach Farm/Vineyard (salad mix & micro greens), Rock Solid Dave H. of Prairie Grass Farm (all things lamb) and renaissance Paul of Bellews Creek Farm (exotic squash & potatoes) to name a few. When I was in need of some potatoes for a party this past week I knew I could count on renaissance Paul at the Wednesday, Maplewood farmer's market. I'm not the first to dub Paul a "renaissance Man", most of the St. Louis food community are familiar with his big personality and broad passions. Paul is just as likely to be building a new house or barn (virtually by himself) as drying his own chipotle peppers or black beans. His farm, out in Jefferson County, is agro-WillyWonka; an eccentric's workshop masquerading as a family farm. You'll find wrought-iron sculptures mingled with homemade farm contraptions, and always a mysterious structure or two in the works. Of all the farmers whose produce I admire, Paul is the only one who seems to do it as a hobby. This is not meant as a slight on his farming, as he clearly knows as much as anyone in that field. It's just that he is as respected for his breadth of knowledge on matters mechanical and artistic as he is for his kick-ass chipotle peppers or Kennebec potatoes. And on this day it was those Kennebec potatoes that drew me to him.

Kennebec potatoes are an excellent all-purpose cooking potato, but I especially love to boil and peel them for warm German-Style Potato Salad. (The quality that makes them the perfect "all-purpose" potato, is a great balance of starch and wax.) Try them with the following recipe.

German-Style Potato Salad (serves six as a side dish)

Kennebec Potatoes* 1 1/2#
Sweet Onion, Sliced 1 Medium
Bacon, Baked 3/4 crisp, Diced** 8 Slices
Bacon Drippings 1 Tablespoon
Olive Oil 2 Tablespoons
Mustard Seed, Brown & Yellow 2 Tablespoons
Celery Seed 1 Teaspoon
Cider Vinegar 1/3 Cup
Brown Sugar, Light 1/4 Cup
Honey 1/4 Cup
Dijon Mustard 2 Tablespoons
Italian Parsley, Minced 2 Tablespoons
Fresh Black Pepper To Taste
Salt, Kosher To Taste

Preparation:

In large pot cover the potatoes (prewashed) with cold water and a few pinches of salt. Bring to a steady simmer for 12-15 minutes, checking regularly. When just starting to become knife tender, and before you see any cracks, remove from heat. Let sit in the water 15 minutes or so (the key to this salad is for the potatoes to be cooked yet still slightly firm). When the potatoes are the desired texture (remember "al dente"), carefully remove to a strainer and let cool. Do not rinse the potatoes with cold water, but when cool enough to handle peel with a sharp paring knife. Cut the potatoes into quarters and cover to keep warm. Meanwhile, sweat the onions, bacon, mustard seed and celery seed in olive oil and drippings for 5-8 minutes. Deglaze with cider vinegar and dijon mustard, honey and brown sugar. Cook until sugar dissolved then add potatoes, parsley and seasoning (salt & pepper). Toss until potatoes are coated. Serve warm or at room temperature.

2006-08-25T10:17:00.000-07:00

First Meal Back

After over two months cooking in Michigan, I knew my first dinner back in St. Louis would be important. After all, this meal would be for my number one client, my designer, my muse, my wife: Carol. Now while I consider my wife to be more proficient than me in virtually everything, (quoting movie lines aside, but I'm not exactly going to brag about that) her varied talents have yet to fully include the culinary arts. She's not a bad cook at all, it's just that she doesn't really enjoy cooking so her repertoire stays pretty limited. In fact, her favorite dishes to prepare typically have names like "Girl Scout Tacos" or "Inside-Out Ravioli". Tasty staples from her childhood, but not exactly recipes from Larousse Gastronomique. Which is fine, for as a chef who spends most days cooking food that's inspired by "Haute Cuisine", my wife's signature dishes provide the perfect type of sustenance: comfort food. Some of my fondest memories of working as an Executive Chef would be coming home, after 14+ hours of foie gras, diver scallops and the like, to a casserole dish of shell noodles, ricotta cheese and red sauce: "Inside Out Ravioli" (sorry no recipe, family secret). It's why I'll never understand why people are tentative to invite chefs to their homes for a meal; on those days when we don't have to cook we'll be happy eating just about anything.

So as I was driving back to St. Louis I gave a lot of thought as to what to make for my girl. For I knew that while I was up in the mitten state cooking for 10 to 12 hours a day, never wanting for any food or foodstuff; poor Carol had resorted to her "BK" days (Before Kirk). This meant either eating the leftovers from a mediocre lunch for dinner or rehooking the microwave (for I'd banished it to the basement) and heating-up God knows what. She wouldn't whip-up "Girl Scout Tacos" for just herself, instead she'd bide her time until her "knight with shiny knives" returned. And, frankly, I love this about her. Creative people working in any medium need those who are central to their lives to rely on their work, and more than in just a material way. I had known for a long time that as much as Carol might need my cooking, I needed to cook for her more.

I knew there would be some nice heirloom tomatoes waiting for me in our home kitchen, I asked a farmer friend to drop some off for Carol as a small anniversary token (What'd you expect me to send..flowers?). But as a result of the big storm that swept through St. Louis in July, and left us without power for days, the tomatoes would be the extent of our larder. Not a lot to work with, but considering I'd be arriving late (after stopping at the John Boos outlet in Effingham, IL for a great deal on their fabulous cutting boards; www.johnboos.com) it would be a great start for what I had in mind.

Every food culture has its means for using old bread. The Italians have panzanella salad and pappa al pomodoro, the French have panade, the Chinese have congee (OK.. that's with rice, but when was the last time you saw a crusty loaf in Tianjin?). My favorite had to be the Lebanese salad with crunchy flatbread, tomato and cucumber: Fattoush. A simple summer salad with a broad range of flavors and textures that's substantial enough to be served as a main course. Yes, this would be the ideal homecoming meal for my wife; a simple affair that would give me plenty of time to catch up with Carol, unpack from my trip and put the microwave back in the basement.

Kirk's Fattoush Salad (serves 4 as main course salad)
I recommend using a variety of tomatoes (for texture), French Feta (not as salty as Greek Feta) and making you own flatbread "pita" chips (it's worth the effort, see asterisk). While ground sumac makes the salad authentic, this version is still delicious without it.

Assorted Ripe Tomatoes, Diced 5 Cups
Seedless Cucumber, Peeled & Diced 1 Large
Pita or Flatbread, Cubed & Toasted* 1 1/2 Cups
Shallot, Sliced 1 Small
Mint, Chiffonade 3 Leaves
Italian Parsley, Minced 3 Tablespoons
Feta, Cubed (preferably French) 1 1/2 Cups (Plus extra for garnish)
Grilled Chicken Breast, Cubed (Optional) 4/6oz.
Black Olives, Oil-Cured (Optional) 1/4 Cup
Bibb Lettuce, Whole Leaves 1 Head

Dressing (Whisk all ingredients thoroughly)
Fresh Lemon Juice 1/4 Cup
Lemon Zest (To ensure you use real Lemons) Pinch
Plain Yogurt (preferably Whole Milk) 3 Tablespoons
Honey 2 Tablespoons
Garlic, Minced 1 Clove
Extra Virgin Olive Oil 1/2 Cup
Sumac, Ground (Optional) 2 Tablespoons
Salt & Fresh Ground Pepper To Taste

Preparation:

Combine salad ingredients with dressing and serve over bibb lettuce leaves. Garnish with extra shredded feta and lemon wedges.

*I highly recommend making your own flatbread "pita" chips. Simply use the pizza dough recipe from the "Weir Grooving" blog. Parbake the rolled-out flatbread (500d, 3-4minutes), let cool and slice into small squares. Toss with olive oil, salt and pepper and bake (350d, 12-15minutes) until crisp. These homemade "pita" chips make a delicious, healthy snack food as well.

2006-08-15T17:14:00.000-07:00

Weir Grooving

As my summer in Michigan comes to a close, one of the last weekends brought with it the highlight of the season for me: a cooking class taught with the amazing chef, food writer and culinary world traveler Joanne Weir (www.joanneweir.com). The last night of the now legendary Jill Winston Girl's Weekend (this year dubbed the "Bohemian Groove" in the spirit of the seminal Northern Californian male power get-together the Bohemian Grove) consisted of a hands-on class co-taught with Joanne. With her cooking pedigree (stint at Chez Panisse, studying with Madeleine Kamman) it was clear Joanne knew her way around a kitchen, what surprised me was how good a teacher she is (it shouldn't have, she won the first Julia Child Cooking Teacher Award for Excellence).

As a veteran of many cooking classes, I've come to believe the key to a successful class is not to simply show the students how a particular dish or recipe should be prepared but why it needs to be prepared that way. To get the novice cook to look at cooking not just as executing recipes and following measurements, but to understand that a good cook feels their way through the cooking experience. That preparing a recipe at one time of year with an ingredient can produce something entirely different with the same ingredient at another time of the year. In essence, to be a kitchen thinker not a kitchen droid.

As good a cook as she is, Joanne Weir's cooking is matched by her abilities as a teacher. She explains her recipes and cooking in a way that is entertaining but also manages to be incredibly informative yet succinct. She had this group of type-A personality woman focused on the task at hand in no time. Their direct attention came in part because they were all excited to participate in one of her classes but also as a result of her teaching style: excited. She genuinely loves good food and you can sense that when she talks about it. Listening to her talk about pizza dough and what makes a great crust had me wanting to stoke a wood-burning pizza oven and knead some fresh dough. Her teaching methods, going over each recipe in detail before you set foot in the kitchen, caused you to appreciate and enjoy your time in the kitchen even more.

The class itself was a little chaotic initially, partly because I had put together a too ambitious menu. This is a mistake I often make when conducting cooking classes (an honest mistake in that I enjoy the teaching process and want people to experience as many different foods as possible), for I know it is better for students to focus in detail on a few recipes and what makes them great rather than to be bombarded with so many that you don't get to know any thoroughly. Despite a lengthy menu and workload (the menu included: Pan Fried Fresh Artichokes with Rock Shrimp & Zucchini "Pappardelle", Grilled Corn and Arugula Salad with Shaved Parmigiano, Pork Loin Chop with Dried Fruit and Madeira, Summer Blueberry Galette with Chestnut Honey Ice Cream, among others), it eventually calmed down when the participants were able to sit and enjoy all of their hard work. The group was deservedly happy with their fabulous spread and experiencing a symptom that most cooks and chefs have right after preparing a great meal: they were full. They had employed one of the cardinal rules of cooking: taste as you go. And while this rule always results in better food, a side effect is you're not really hungry when you sit down to eat. (I'll go into my book idea for "The Cook's Diet: A True Tasting Menu" in another blog).

As we finished cleaning the kitchen and were saying our good-byes, I thanked Joanne for the opportunity to cook with her to which she responded "We made some great food." For some reason it was the most satisfying of responses, as if our cooking mission were accomplished and we could look forward to cooking another day. A thoroughly enjoyable conclusion to a wonderful summer.

Here's Joanne Weir's great pizza dough and flatbread recipe.

Crispy Flatbread with Tomatoes, Basil and Smoked Mozzarella

1 recipe Pizza Dough
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
3 tablespoons Balsamic vinegar
1 clove garlic minced
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
6oz. yellow cherry tomatoes, cut in half
6oz. red cherry tomatoes, cut in half
1 1/2 cups coarsely grated, smoked mozzarella, about 6oz.
1/2 cup fresh basil leaves, loosely packed, cut into thin strips

Make the pizza dough and let rise.

Thirty minutes before baking, place a pizza stone or unglazed quarry tiles on the bottom shelf of the oven and set the oven temperature to 500F.

On a floured surface, divide the dough into two pieces and form into round balls. Roll one piece into a 9-inch circle, 1/4" thick. Transfer to a well-floured pizza peel or paddle. Transfer the dough from the peel directly onto the heated brick in the oven. Top with half of the cheese, distributing evenly. Bake until golden and crisp, 8 to 10 minutes.

In the meantime, in a bowl, whisk together the oil, vinegar and garlic. Season with salt and pepper. Add the cherry tomatoes and toss together.

When the pizza is done, place on a platter. Top with half of the tomatoes, vinaigrette and basil. Serve immediately. Continue with the remaining ingredients to make a second pizza.

Makes 2 pizzas, 9-inches diameter

Adapted from "Weir Cooking, Recipes from the Wine Country" by Joanne Weir

The Best Pizza Dough

2 teaspoons dry yeast
3/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons lukewarm water, 110F.
2 cups unbleached bread flour
2 tablespoons olive oil
1/2 teaspoon salt

In a bowl, combine yeast, 1/4 cup warm water and 1/4 cup flour. Let it stand for 30 minutes. Add the remaining 1 3/4cup flour, 1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons warm water, olive oil, and salt. Mix the dough thoroughly. Turn out onto a floured surface and knead until smooth, elastic and a bit tacky to the touch, 7 to 8 minutes. Place in an oiled bowl and turn to cover with oil. Cover with plastic wrap and let rise in a warm place (75F) until double in volume, 1 to 1 1/2hours.

Alternately you can let this dough rise in the refrigerator overnight. The next day, bring the dough to room temperature and proceed.

Adapted from "Weir Cooking, Recipes from the Wine Country" by Joanne Weir

Kirk also recommends "From Tapas to Meze: Small Plates from the Mediterranean" by Joanne Weir, a literary precursor to the current "small plates" craze. Accessible and broad.

2006-08-15T15:27:00.000-07:00

237 Ears of Free Sweet Corn.

As the summer harvest comes rushing in, it's not just tomato and zucchini plants that produce fruit at a rate that makes it difficult to keep up. Most amateur growers have experienced the joy and stress of one or all of their plantings ripening at just about the same time. The joy comes with the knowledge that you must have done something right to have such a bountiful garden, the stress follows shortly after with the question "what the hell am I going to do with 20 pounds of eggplant?" In rural America most small farmers deal with the same issues, just multiplied.

This past week I ran into Lee and Laurie Arboreal (Eater's Guild Farm in Bangor, Michigan), who I've been buying produce from in Michigan for the last few summers, at the local coffee shop. They greeted me with the seemingly harmless question "want some sweet corn?" Having recently returned from the Saugatuck farmer's market they were loaded-down with their delicious organic sweet corn (not an easy trick, as even corn that's encrusted with every chemical known to man can be littered with worms) and I was the last option before they threw enough corn to their ducks to produce some nice lobes of foie gras. So not as a stand against fattened duck liver, for I love the stuff, but rather because any food-loving person has a difficult time saying no when offered great ingredients for free, I agreed to take four-plus cases of corn off their hands. It was only as I was driving away, my little hatch-back riding low because of a hundred pounds of maize, did I confront that age-old question "what the hell am I going to do with all this corn?"

Hours later, just as I was beginning to think investing in some ducks would be better than shucking all that corn, I had the eureka moment of turning all of that corn into a small token of thanks for my clients. Something I could leave behind to say thanks for using the Traveling Kitchen, appreciation for allowing me to make a living doing what I love: COOK. Some ginger, many dozen mason jars, ground coriander, and a bushel of green tomatoes later I had every space of the kitchen littered with my creation: Organic Sweet Corn Chutney with Ginger, Green Tomato & Coriander. Then, as I was feeling satisfied, reveling in what I felt was a major accomplishment, even though spending all day and most of the night of one of my few free days working on this rather than the myriad things I needed to do for my fledgling company is not exactly accomplishing, a new question came to me. Probably the same question cooks who work with seasonal goods, who are passionate about preserving the ingredients that they love while they're at their best, have been forced to answer for generations: "Where the hell am I going to put...".

Here's a good recipe for sweet corn. Try to purchase your corn from local farmer's markets or farmstands where the corn has seen little or no refrigeration, it'll be much sweeter.

Dairyless "Creamed" Corn Soup serves 6
This soup takes advantage of the natural milk in really fresh sweet corn. By pureeing the soup while warm it will have a delightfully creamy texture, without the fat and calories of cream or milk.

Sweet Corn, shucked and removed from the cob 4 Cups (about 3 ears of corn)
Sweet Onion, minced 1 Medium
Garlic, minced 1 Tablespoon
Extra-Virgin Olive Oil 2 Tablespoons
Chicken Stock, preferably homemade 6 Cups
Kosher Salt and Fresh White Pepper as needed

To Serve:
Cherry Tomatoes, halved 1 Cup
Fresh Basil, chiffonade 1 Tablespoon
Avocado, peeled, pitted and diced 1 ripe
Sea Salt to taste
Good Olive Oil to drizzle to taste
Smoked Paprika (Pimenton de la Vera), optional pinch

In a medium pot, sweat garlic and onions in olive oil over low flame until translucent, about 10 minutes. Add corn, cook until aromatic five minutes or so, add chicken stock and bring to a boil. Cook for 10-15 minutes, remove from flame and let cool. While still warm, carefully puree in blender, leave slightly chunky. Return to pot and season to taste. Serve in warm bowls garnished with tomatoes, basil, avocado, salt, smoked paprika and drizzled with oil.

2006-07-18T08:42:00.000-07:00

A Salami to End All Salami.

Always on the look out for new food products, I had the pleasure this week to try some salami from Paul Bertolli's new company Fra'Mani out of Oakland, California. WOW...if you're a cured meat connoisseur read no further, log onto Fra'Mani's website (www.framani.com) and order some of their amazing sausage (do it quick because as a new company making a handcrafted product the availability fluctuates). For those of you who can wait until after lunch, here's a little more info. Bertolli is the former chef/owner of Oliveto Restaurant in Oakland and a longtime advocate for traditional Italian foods. His great cookbook "Cooking by Hand" documents his methods for making real balsamic vinegar, prosciutto, pastas and of course salumi. His new company, which released its first cured meat in March, is a labor-of-love for Bertolli and has been in the works for almost four-years. Coupling a state-of-the-art facility with traditional methodology, Fra'Mani if positioned to become the premier producer of world-class salami in this country. If their Salume Gentile is any indication, they may already be the premier producer. It is without a doubt the best of its kind I've ever had (that includes Salume I've eaten in Italy), meaty but subtle, with an almost buttery consistency, and not at all leathery or too salty. The purveyor I bought it from thanked me for taking some of it off his hands; not because he couldn't move it, but rather because he couldn't stop eating it. For those of you reading this in St. Louis who don't necessarily want to purchase a 3# stick of salame right from the source, check with Simon at the Wine Merchant in Clayton. I'm sure he's either carrying Fra'Mani sausage or will be happy to get some in for you. For those of you who think it's a little weird for someone to be this excited about a piece of meat, you need to know that years ago when I was a wayward vegetarian visiting France, my siren's song was a hunk of saucisson sec at a market in Aix-en-Provence. As a vegetarian I never had a chance, and it has been a meaty ride ever since.

2006-07-11T19:52:00.000-07:00

A Good Sign.

As a native of Southwestern Michigan, albeit one who hasn't lived there in over a decade, I've recently discovered something in the corner of my home state more rare than a patch of morels in August: a couple of really good restaurants. Now considering my mother owns and operates a wonderful restaurant in the area (Bistro 120 in Paw Paw), her establishment is excluded from my criticism, in fact for over a decade it has been one of the few eating places in hundreds of square miles worth paying to eat at. But like much of the rest of rural America, Western Michigan has been over-run by chain restaurants and, just as bad, independent restaurants serving chain restaurant food (everything out of a Sysco Foods box, into the deep-fat fryer). However, last week I came across a shimmer of hope for the residents of this area who are interested in food that is actually made by the people cooking it, rather than in a processing facility hundreds of miles away. The Journeyman Cafe and Su Casa Cantina in Fennville, Michigan are doing something special for an area of Michigan that desperately needs establishments cooking genuine food.

The Journeyman is a small cafe in the heart of this struggling town, just 15 minutes from the more vibrant Saugatuck-Douglas. It's not unlike the kind of place you'd expect to find in a recently gentrified area of a large city; the first enterprise of a risk-taker who by starting small and running it tight can create the kind of business they want. The really special thing about The Journeyman is that while the space is spartan and utilitarian, the ingredients they use are as special as they come. In fact, I first heard about it from a local organic farmer who sells The Journeyman's artisanal bread at the Saugatuck Farmer's Market (the seedy salt loaf is especially delicious). They've accepted the additional expense of using organic produce and naturally-raised meats while catering to an audience that largely doesn't appreciate them, or more importantly, want to pay for them. And they're doing it serving dishes like housemade braunschweiger and guanciale (cured pork jowl) from the salumeria of Armandino Batali (Mario's father), hard-core stuff for an urban audience let alone one in a town with a single traffic light (which only flashes yellow).

Just on the other side of that flashing yellow light, is the second-part of Fennville's restaurant row. A place more authentic than a lot of the restaurants in Mexico. The market in the front of Su Casa, an antique building that seemingly hasn't been worked on since they painted faux Aztec murals on the walls to cover the cracks, is packed full of Latin necessities like pickled jalepenos, fresh churros, and warm flour tortillas. If you navigate through the tiny store-front, past the coolers full of tripe and pig's feet, past the shelves of freshly baked Mexican pastries and crisp corn chips you come across a diamond in the rough, the restaurant at Su Casa. With a small, open kitchen serving authentic Mexican staples like cow's tongue and menudo, as well as delicious pork tacos with salsa cruda or huge chicken burritos with salsa verde. The last time I visited, Mexico was about to play Argentina in the World Cup, the staff was plating up their comida and preparing to feast and watch the game, the atmosphere was as authentic as the food. The most amazing thing about Su Casa, and almost every other underappreciated ethnic restaurant, is you can get an incredible meal for about the same price as a McDonald's Happy Meal. In a perfect world, Su Casa would be our fast-food option.

The Journeyman and Su Casa are restaurants that, if they were located in St. Louis, I could find myself happily eating at on a regular basis. But seeing as they're 400 miles from where I live, a long commute for even the most committed foodie, I'll simply have to enjoy them when I visit the restaurant mecca that is Fennville, Michigan.

2006-07-03T19:41:00.000-07:00

Christmas Comes Early.

Every once in a while a food person gets the opportunity to work with some of the best kitchen ingredients out there. Whether it's from cooking at a foodie friend's house who stocked their pantry just for your cooking pleasure or working with a gourmet gift basket of culinary goodies presented to you as congratulatory gesture, when you get to cook with the GOOD stuff it's a real treat. I recently received a varied order of food exquisites (really amazing food) as part of my job up here in Michigan. This culinary teasure came from my friends at Great Ciao in Minneapolis, where they must take those long, cold winters to think hard about great food and what goes into it. This order had some really special items: Ames Farm Honey, Blu del Moncenisio cheese from Italy, Pastificio Marella pastas, Wild Tuscan Pine Nuts, Etc.. As a cook it's not every day you get to work with as varied and unique a pantry as this when cooking, so you appreciate it when the opportunity presents itself. The key is to not lose what makes these ingredients so special (and often-times expensive): the people who make these products are perfectionists about their craft. And their ingredients typically have a complexity and nuance that are best appreciated when they're used in dishes that allow them to shine. This is the perfect time of year to be working with these food jewels, when local produce is in full-swing and at its best. So for the time being I can do without the candycanes and chestnuts, but bring on the sea salt flavored with flecks of white truffle sprinkled over perfect creamer potatoes.

As a recipe for the season (when delicious berries and fruits are prevalent), and with an emphasis on simple recipes to accompany great ingredients, here's my Vanilla Bean Ice Cream recipe:

Vanilla Bean Ice Cream

Milk 1 1/2Cups
Vanilla Bean (split) 1
Sugar 1/2Cup + 1 Tablespoon

Egg Yolks 5
Heavy Cream 3/4Cup

Preparation: Scald milk, split/scraped vanilla bean and half of the sugar. Steep for 15 minutes.
Meanwhile, cream remaining sugar and egg yolks. Boil milk and temper egg mixture, combine in double boiler while whisking steadily, cook for 10-20 minutes until thickens to custard-like consistency.

Refrigerate immediately with vanilla bean (preferably over night). Before mixing in ice cream maker, remove bean and add cream. Follow manufacturers instructions on churning. Makes approximately 4 cups.

2006-06-22T19:40:00.000-07:00

A Promised Recipe.

A new client of mine requested this recipe after an anniversary dinner I cooked recently for she and her husband. This piquante pepper sauce is great for full flavored fish (wild salmon, tuna, etc.) or roasted chicken, and especially delicious with fried shrimp or calamari. The key ingredient, pappadew peppers from South Africa, are available in the deli section of Schnucks. Here it is, enjoy:

1 cup pappadew peppers
1 small onion, diced
1 large red pepper, seeded & diced
1 tablespoon garlic, minced
1 medim carrot, shredded
1/4 cup dry white wine
1/2 cup chicken stock
salt & pepper, to taste
3 tablespoons flat-leaf parsley, minced
pappadew pepper brine, as needed

Preparation: Saute peppers, onions, garlic and carrots until soft. Deglaze with white wine, simmer until absorbed, add chicken stock. Cook 5-10min.. Puree in blender or with stick blender, return to sauce pan and add parsley and brine until desired consistency. Serve warm.

2006-06-22T19:15:00.000-07:00

Good Ole Michigan

I've been up in the mitten state for almost a week now and besides the lack of humidity and urban living the big difference is the incredible availability of fresh berries. Everywhere you go up here you run into a farm or a market peddling fresh spring strawberries (small purveyors selling their berries out of the back of a pick-up truck is a common site along the county roads of Western Michigan). Cooking for the Winstons this week I've been using strawberries for everything (they've been good sports about it for they're blueberry people): salads, coulis for ice creams, tarts, glaze for chicken, etc.. Those of you who are forced to shop among those plastic pints of "cardboard" Driscoll's strawberries at Schnucks, Straubs or Dierbergs know what I mean when I talk about the allure of berries for sale mere hours after they were picked. I'm a sucker for those make-shift farmstands of locally grown produce, I'll almost always buy some of everything (provided the quality is there) and figure out what to do with it when I get back to the kitchen. The great thing for those of us up here in Michigan is that we have local blueberries, raspberries, sweet corn, apricots, peaches, etc. to look forward to. Missing all of you but not the humidity. Cheers.

2006-06-05T22:44:00.000-07:00

The Near Future.

I leave in a couple of weeks to spend the summer on the West-coast of Michigan to cook for my good friends, the "first family of food", the Winstons. I'll be updating the Traveling Kitchen blog regularly with stories, market reports and, of course, recipes. I'll be returning to St. Louis in late August to begin building Kirk's Traveling Kitchen in earnest. I'm finishing this post with a recipe for a great, light summer canape (and the final Amuse Bouche from my tenure as chef at Savor). Enjoy.

Kaffir Lime-Melon "Shooters" with Coconut Cream and Sesame Wafers
(makes enough for 12 canape portions)

Cantaloupe, Peeled/Seeded/Diced 1 medium
Fresh Lime Juice 4 limes
Simple Syrup, (1/2 water/1/2 sugar) 1 1/2 cups
Kaffir Lime Leaves (fresh or frozen) 2
Coriander Seeds (cracked) 15
Green Cardamom pods (cracked) 5

Coconut Milk 1 cup
Heavy Cream 1/2 cup

Spring roll wrappers 4 sheets
Eggs, beaten 1
Soy sauce 1 Tablespoon
Sesame Seeds (Black and White) as needed

Preparation Procedure: Preheat oven to 325.

Bring simple syrup, lime leaves, coriander and cardamom to boil. Remove from stove and allow to steep 30 minutes to one hour. Strain and chill.

Meanwhile beat heavy cream in mixer until peaks start to form, fold in coconut milk and mix until thick. Refrigerate.

When syrup is cold pour over melon and lime juice in blender and blend until smooth. Refrigerate.

Brush springroll wrappers (cut in an appealing shape) with egg wash mixed with oyster sauce or hoisin or soy. Sprinkle with sesame while still wet.
Lay out on silpat or parchment lined sheet pan, cover with sheet of parchment or another silpat. Bake 10-15 minutes until brown.

Fill shot glass 2/3 full of melon soup, top with dollup of cold coconut chantilly and garnish with sesame wafer.

2006-06-05T06:15:00.000-07:00

How I got here.

As I wrap-up my last few weeks at Savor, I've been taking a little time to reflect on how I became a chef and lover of great food. The food part is relatively straight forward, how was I not going to be a food person with a father who exposed me to great restaurants and unique ingredients since I was a toddler (an Indonesian-style rijsttafel [rice table] comes to mind), and a mother who is an incredible cook, restaurant owner and notorious portion monster (I still remember how impressed my friends were in grade-school when they came over to our house in the winter to find our back-porch transformed into a makeshift walk-in cooler and loaded with 50-quart stock pots of various delicious soups and stews my Mother had made for us as an after-school snack). Becoming a chef didn't come as naturally. Even though I loved cooking and working in restaurants, I'd always thought of professional cooking as a means to get through film school. Two things happened to help change my mind. The first occured during my first year of graduate studies, while taking a hiatus in St. Louis, my car was broken into and all my film equipment stolen. About the same time I received a copy of A. Dornenburg & K. Page's inspirational "Becoming a Chef" an incredible book that outlines the amazing world of prefessional cooking through interviews with some of the world's best chefs. I took these events as signs, left school (which I wasn't enjoying anyway) and committed myself to learning everything I could about cooking and food. Many incredible meals and unforgettable food experiences later I'm about to embark on another food adventure: Kirk's Traveling Kitchen.